Bulgaria > The Devil's Throat Cave

At half past nine, I leave the hotel with my daypack. I follow Svetoslava and turn left at the first road—a country lane leading from the village into the forest. The semi-paved path gradually ascends, with pine trees lining both sides. Today the weather is beautiful, and the sky is a clear, bright blue. Along the way, it’s nice to chat with the other travelers, picking up various travel ideas.

Bulgaria - The first hiking day from Yagodina

After a little over an hour of climbing, I reach a mountain hut with a table and benches—a perfect spot to take a break. I then continue the ascent toward the top of the mountain. Around noon, I reach the highest point. I sink comfortably into the grass and unpack my lunch from my backpack. At a nearby tap, I refill my water bottle. The water comes from the mountains and is safe to drink. After lunch, the route gently descends toward Trigrad, a mountain village in the neighboring valley. Gradually, the clouds begin to gather, and as I get closer to Trigrad, the sky starts to look threatening. In the streets of Trigrad, I see something of local life for the first time; along the route earlier, I had barely seen any people. I also notice that there is very little livestock in the mountains. In Trigrad, a few old trucks stand parked—probably dating back to the Russian era when Bulgaria was still communist.

Bulgaria - The Devils Throat Cave is a large open space in the rocks

I doubt whether these vehicles have been driven recently, or if they could even run at all. At the central square, the bus is waiting. Just as I get on, it begins to rain—a perfect timing. By bus, I travel a short distance to the entrance of the Devil’s Throat Cave, a large cave 110 meters high. I follow Yuri, the local guide, into the 150-meter-long tunnel. Yuri explains that this tunnel was created in the 1970s to provide better access to the cave. Inside, a river flows, and I immediately hear the thundering roar of the 45-meter-high waterfall. It is the largest covered waterfall in Bulgaria—an impressive sight. On the far side of the cave, I climb 288 steps to exit via the original entrance of the Devil’s Throat Cave. The bus is waiting outside. On the ride back to Yagodina, the rain begins to fall harder. I decide to skip the optional walk back to the village. At the terrace, I order a beer. In the evening, I enjoy a traditional Bulgarian meal. As I go to bed, a thunderstorm rumbles outside.