Mexico > A Walking Tour Through San Cristóbal

When I get up, I’m luckily feeling much better. Still, at breakfast I limit myself to some toast and tea. Several fellow travelers are under the weather, but for no one is it really debilitating. At ten o’clock, a city tour is given by the Free Walking Tours organization. The meeting point is at the cathedral. There is quite a lot of interest for the tour, so the group is split in two. Landor, a Mexican young man, welcomes us and takes us through the city. He tells us the city was founded by the Spanish conquistador Diego de Mazariegos in 1528 and was previously called Villa Real de Chiapa. Unlike many other cities, this city was not conquered from the Maya but was built entirely in the valley. From the hills flow five rivers that come together in the valley. This used to cause floods and hindered the expansion of the city. In the last century, they decided to channel the rivers. The water now flows under the streets in some places, and a passage was dug through the mountains so the water can drain faster. Because of this, San Cristobal de Las Casas no longer suffers from flooding. However, the tunnel was damaged during the last earthquake in 2017. Should the tunnel ever collapse, the city could flood again. Landor takes us to a viewpoint over the city. From here, the red tiled roofs of the city are clearly visible. During the tour, Landor gives tips for activities and recommends nice restaurants. We pass the former city gate and visit a coffee shop where high-quality coffee is produced. The cappuccino tastes good, at least.

Mexico - View over the city of San Cristóbal

Via the central square, we walk towards the Nuestra Señora de la Caridad church. Around this church, numerous market stalls of the Maya population are set up. It’s even hard to find the entrance to the church. The stalls almost form a maze. Luckily, Landor knows the way. The façade of the church is beautifully crafted and decorated. Landor explains that the decoration was meant to outshine the cathedral of San Cristobal. Inside, the church is impressively beautiful as well. The walls are adorned with gold-plated decorations. Very special and beautiful. The walking tour ends in a courtyard where we can try local alcoholic drinks. The first drink starts with 45% alcohol. I decide to skip that one for now. After the tour, we thank Landor for his explanations. I give him a tip. It’s now lunchtime. At a terrace, we order some food and drinks. After eating, we want to visit the cathedral where the tour started this morning. We haven’t been able to see the inside yet. Behind us, dark clouds form. Very dark clouds. Before we reach the cathedral, it starts to rain. Unfortunately, we cannot take shelter inside the cathedral because it is closed. We briefly shelter under the gallery opposite until the worst of the rain passes. Then I return to the hotel. As soon as I arrive, the shower really breaks loose. There is even a clap of thunder.

Mexico - The colorful cathedral of San Cristóbal de las Casas

Because of the location of San Cristobal de Las Casas in the valley, a rain cloud passing over the mountain can quickly cause rain. Around five o’clock, when we go back outside, the weather is dry again. Puddles lie everywhere, and it’s necessary to watch out for splashing water from passing cars. The cathedral is now open. From behind the church, I look at the impressively large cathedral. This church also makes abundant use of gold-painted decorations. There is just enough light from outside to see this well. Luckily, the lights in the cathedral turn on just then. At the side, there are three separate chapels. It’s striking that these alcoves are only on one side of the church. Often, churches are symmetrical. The small chapel next to the cathedral also has its gate open, but the church itself is closed. We cross the square. Colorful flags for Valentine’s Day hang there. Red hearts are also hung everywhere in the city. This morning Landor recommended a vegetarian restaurant. The small restaurant has no space for eight people, but there is room outside in the courtyard. We all brought sweaters or jackets, so eating outside should work. After dinner, we go to a little bar. The waiter refills our empty glasses without asking. This feels strange. When we get the bill, the extra drinks are not included. A sign on the street explains: it’s happy hour, two drinks for the price of one.