Mexico > The Beach of Mahahual

When I open the curtains of our “tower room,” I see a large cruise ship docked in the distance. Mahahual is a popular cruise destination. Later today, another cruise ship is supposed to arrive. The beaches will be taken over mainly by American tourists. Breakfast is served in the hotel courtyard: pancakes, eggs, and honey. A decent start to the day. This morning, I’m going snorkeling by the coral. The beach looks beautiful, and combined with the clear blue water, it gives a paradisiacal view. The water is shallow. I wade in a little to board the snorkeling boat. The water reaches only up to my knees. Wearing a life vest is mandatory on board, also during snorkeling. Sigh. It’s really hot and not very convenient for snorkeling. Because a life vest pushes you up, it’s harder to kick effectively with the fins. It doesn’t help. The boat sails close to the surf, a few hundred meters offshore. The waves break on the coral. When I jump into the water, the underwater world initially disappoints me. The coral is dull, and there are few colorful fish.

Mexico - Mahahual mainly welcomes cruise passengers

Still, it’s wonderful to follow a few fish among the rugged coral rocks. Larger fish nibble at the coral, then smaller fish snap up the leftovers. Miguel leads the group. He only speaks Spanish. Suzy tries to translate as best she can. However, it’s difficult to communicate in the water. Miguel asks everyone to stay together. This sometimes means I have to dodge the fins of fellow snorkelers. It looks a bit chaotic. Due to the surf and current, it’s important to be careful not to be pushed against the coral.

Mexico - Snorkeling in Mahahual

Also, you have to avoid getting water in your snorkel tube. Not everyone succeeds equally well. Miguel goes ahead searching for turtles. He leads us to a spot where these sea creatures are often seen. Unfortunately, not today. On the way back to the boat, I spot a moray eel hiding under a piece of coral. A whole school of fish floats back and forth around this rock with the current. I stay there a moment to watch. After two hours, we’re back on the beach. We are allowed to use the beach beds and kayaks, included with the boat trip. I lay my towel on one of the beds and rest in the shade of the palm trees. I have a wonderful view of the beach and sea.

Mexico - The special colors of the coral

I order a beer and something to eat. First, I get a menu with prices in US dollars. This menu is for cruise passengers who don’t have local currency. The menu in Mexican pesos is much cheaper. The exact same dishes cost about half as much compared to the cruise menu. This way, the businesses hope to still make some profit from the cruise passengers. In a kayak, I paddle through the shallow water. Between the seaweed are channels just wide enough for the canoe. In the afternoon, I walk along the beach. All the beach bars are entirely focused on American tourists. For the first time this holiday, I’m only addressed in English. I walk up to the lighthouse. I’m wearing my Tevas. This was a bad choice. The sand rubs against my feet. I already feel a blister coming on, and I still have to walk back.

Mexico - It’s lovely to relax on the beach of Mahahual

At a slow pace, I walk the approximately two kilometers back along the beach. Near the hotel, I order a beer. In the evening, I go out to eat with a small group at a beach bar. It seems a transformation has taken place. All the cruise passengers have left, the busy beach bars are empty, and the beach beds are stacked again for the next day. There’s a calmness in Mahahual. Actually, quite nice.