Mexico > The Lake of Bacalar

At breakfast, several travel companions complain about the noise from last night’s party. I didn’t hear a thing. I understand it was loud even in the room next to mine. Could I have slept that deeply? Or was our room just a bit more favorably located in relation to the music? Breakfast isn’t much to speak of—toast, eggs, and jam. It’s rather meager. By bus, we drive to Lake Bacalar. We can take it easy because the boat trip isn’t until eleven o’clock. Lake Bacalar is a beautiful freshwater lake. It is known for its spectacular shades of blue and turquoise, caused by varying depths and the white limestone bottom. The lake stretches 42 kilometers in length but is relatively narrow, only about 2 kilometers wide. Bacalar is connected to underground rivers and cenotes, resulting in crystal-clear water.

Mexico - Boating on the clear waters of Bacalar Lake

The lake has a narrow passage to the sea, which made it an ideal retreat for the Maya and the Spaniards. The passage was easily defendable. Directly opposite the passage, called “the channel of the pirates,” stands the historic fort Fuerte de San Felipe. Next to this fort, I order a cappuccino at a barista stand. A little later, I board the boat. I see the greenish-blue lake in front of me. However, dark clouds hang above the lake. It’s not a question of if it will rain, but when and how much. Lake Bacalar is shallow and has a white sandy bottom. This causes the sun to reflect, giving the lake its unique color. With every change of sunlight, the color seems to shift.

Mexico - Deep sinkholes in Bacalar Lake

There are some cenotes in the lake. As we sail toward a cenote, I see the bottom beneath me change from a few meters deep to several hundred meters. Cenotes are sinkholes formed when the surface collapses after water carves channels in the porous rock. These sinkholes later became part of the lake. Near the narrow passage, the skipper drops the anchor. We have the opportunity to swim. The skipper warns us to be careful because it is very shallow. When the boat leaves, the water only reaches just below my knees. Fortunately, it gets deeper further on. Meanwhile, the sun breaks through, making the lake’s colors even more beautiful. We visit two more cenotes and make another swim stop. Then the skipper heads to the Bacalar Beach Club. We disembark at the pier.

Mexico - Relaxing at the Beach Club on Bacalar Lake

We can spend the rest of the afternoon at the beach club. I pick a lounge chair and order a draft beer. A liter of beer appears beside me shortly. This is pure enjoyment. While watching the water of the lake, the sun continues to break through more and more. Luckily, I’m lying in the shade. The sun would be too strong otherwise. At five o’clock, I report back to the bus. It’s still about an hour and a half drive to Mahahual—a small coastal town mainly visited by cruise passengers. The hotel is a bit quirky. The rooms are accessed from the courtyard via various staircases and walkways. No two rooms are alike. The rooms also have animal names. Without directions, it’s hard to find your way. We have a tower room, which is reached by a spiral staircase. We end the evening at a restaurant on the beach. Most travel companions had a big lunch this afternoon. I did not, so I’m hungry. I order pasta with salmon. A delicious choice.

Mexico - Dining on the beach in Mahahual