Iceland > Sailing among the Icebergs

When we raise the blinds in the living room, we see that the rain has given way to the sun. The mountains that were still wrapped in clouds yesterday stand out beautifully against the blue sky this morning. It is still just a bit too chilly to have breakfast outside on the veranda. So we eat inside. After breakfast, we pack our things and hit the road again. We follow the coastline along the fjords. Sometimes the seawater crashes against the rugged rock formations. In other places, especially in the fjord inlets, the mountains are reflected in the mirror-like water. It is a beautiful environment. At every bend in the road, the view seems different and more beautiful. At a black pebble beach, we stop for a moment. A huge rock stands alone in the middle of the beach. After about an hour’s drive, we pass Höfn (pronounced Hup). We also pass the hotel where we will stay tonight. Originally, a hotel closer to the glaciers was part of the itinerary, but that hotel was already fully booked when we booked. For the alternative hotel, we have to drive back a bit tonight. Just after Höfn, we see the foothills of the Vatnajökull glacier.

Iceland - The ring road around Iceland on the southern side

Several glacier tongues flow downwards. What an impressive mass of ice. At the top of the glacier, it must be even more massive. No wonder it is the largest glacier in the country. Around eleven o’clock, we arrive at Fjallsárlón. A glacier lake at the foot of the Fjallsjökull glacier tongue. The broken icebergs from the glacier float in the lake. This creates an amazingly beautiful sight. Water flows out of the lake to the sea through a small river. Many icebergs are too large; only after melting sufficiently do they float with the current towards the sea. From Fjallsárlón lake, a trail leads to Breiðárlón lake. This lesser-known lake was formed as the melting glacier retreated. We walk there. The path runs over rocks and boulders left behind by the glacier. After about half an hour of walking, it turns out we’re not even halfway yet. We decide not to continue.

Iceland - The Fjallsjokull glacier tongue flows into the lake

We pick a nice spot and unpack our lunch from our backpack. A delicious lunch in a beautiful setting. There is no one to be seen anywhere. After lunch, we walk the path back to the parking lot at Fjallsárlón. A few kilometers further lies the larger and more famous iceberg lake: Jökulsárlón. First, we drive to the small beach where the water from the lake flows into the sea. Here too, the glacier chunks have to pass through a shallow channel. When the icebergs have melted enough, they float out to sea. The waves then push many icebergs onto the black pebble beach. Large blocks of ice lie in the surf. A bizarre sight. In Jökulsárlón lake, numerous icebergs float until they melt enough to drift to the sea. Some chunks are larger than a house. It is hard to imagine that only one-tenth of these icebergs is visible above water. The clear water of the lake is ideal for fish. We see some seals swimming through the bay searching for food. The weather is still beautiful. The blue color of the ice is reflected in the water. In the afternoon, we check in for a boat trip. We take a trip in an amphibious vehicle.

Iceland - Tour boats sail between the icebergs

We board on land, after which the vehicle drives into the water. They explain on board that these are old American military vehicles. The boat sails between the enormous icebergs. The glacier is still eight kilometers away, we are told. I had estimated it much closer. What a misleading impression. From the water, Jökulsárlón lake is even more impressive. How beautiful this is. After forty minutes, the boat drives back onto land. We return to our car. We still have to drive back to our hotel in Höfn. A ride of almost an hour. The view of the numerous glaciers quickly makes up for it. The town of Höfn is a fishing village. In the center, we fill up the car and do some grocery shopping. We also look for a restaurant for tonight. We see two or three options. Then we drive to the Arnanes Country Hotel, a few kilometers outside Höfn. At the reception, we are immediately recognized as Dutch. “How nice,” says the owner in Dutch. She moved here four years ago and runs the hotel together with her Icelandic boyfriend. The room has shared sanitary facilities. Something fairly common in Iceland. Fortunately for us, this is only the case at this accommodation. In the evening, we head back toward Höfn once more to eat.