Iceland > Bubbling Mud

When I step into the shower, I immediately smell sulfur. It is normal in Iceland that the hot water comes from the ground. Entire towns are heated with volcanic water. Still, such a sulfur shower doesn’t feel particularly fresh. Breakfast is in a nearby hotel. Yesterday’s envelope included a route map showing how to get to the hotel. We decide to load our luggage right away and continue driving after breakfast. At the hotel, a buffet is ready. Nobody seems to care about our breakfast voucher. We take what we want from the buffet. At half past eight, we set off. Since the church of Hólar, the oldest stone church in Iceland, only opens its doors at ten o’clock, we first drive to Hofsós, just past Hólar. At Hofsós, basalt rock lies along the coast. Here you can clearly see how lava can change into pillar-like rock formations. A little further south stands a small seventeenth-century church in the middle of a field. To reach it, we have to open a gate. We close the gate behind the car so the sheep cannot escape. The church is the oldest turf church in Iceland. Around the church lies a round turf wall. The weather vane shows 167x; the last digit is missing. From the oldest turf church, we drive to the oldest stone church in Hólar. The church is now open. Behind the altar stands a beautiful triptych, believed to be of Dutch workmanship. The church, built of red bricks, dates from 1763.

Iceland - The oldest turf church in Iceland from the 17th century

The church tower stands separate from the church. It is said that under the tower lies Jón Arason, the last Catholic bishop of Iceland before the Reformation in 1550. We follow the coastal road over the peninsula to Siglufjörður. The views of the fjord and the ocean are magnificent. The road twists and turns and goes up and down. Sometimes the incline is more than ten percent. After about an hour’s drive, we arrive in Siglufjörður, the northernmost town (with over 1,000 inhabitants) of Iceland. Siglufjörður used to be the herring capital but has declined into a quiet harbor town. We take a stroll through the center. Next to the harbor lies a campsite. Campers stand side by side on the bare field, giving a somewhat desolate impression. We quickly drive on to Akureyri. Just outside Siglufjörður, we enter a nearly four-kilometer-long tunnel, immediately followed by a seven-kilometer-long passage under the mountains. This tunnel ensures Siglufjörður remains accessible in winter. Via Eyjafjörður, we arrive around one o’clock in Akureyri. This is the largest city in the north, yet Akureyri has only 18,000 inhabitants. Because of its regional function, the center is pleasantly busy.

Iceland - The modern Akureyrarkirkja church in Akureyri

We climb the stairs to the modern-looking Akureyrarkirkja church. This Lutheran church is a symbol of the city. In the shopping street, we order coffee at the bookstore, which is specially mentioned in travel guides. The cashier hears we are from the Netherlands. His parents moved to Iceland from the Netherlands, he tells us in Dutch. The weather has generally been nice today. We have seen the sun regularly. When we leave Akureyri, we see the town from across the fjord basking in the sun. Just outside Akureyri is a toll tunnel. We turn off before the tunnel and take the mountain pass instead. The pass offers beautiful views. On the other side, we arrive at Goðafoss, the Waterfall of the Gods. It is amazing how many tourists gather here. Where is everyone suddenly coming from? Goðafoss is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. The water falls twelve meters down over a width of thirty meters. An impressive sight. As we continue towards Lake Mývatn, the sky darkens. The further inland we drive, the darker the sky becomes. It isn’t long before thick drops fall on the windshield. Puddles form on the road. It’s a shame it starts raining here. We stop by the lake. In the pouring rain, we look out over the lake. A walk is pointless now. Mývatn means “midge lake.” Even in the rain, it quickly becomes clear where the name comes from. Hundreds of midges dance in the air.

Iceland - Plenty of volcanic activity around Lake Myvatn

The area around Mývatn is a very active volcanic zone on the fault line. The lake itself was also formed by volcanic eruptions. On the other side of the Námaskarð pass, the rain seems to be less intense. Here lies Hverir, an area of hot springs. Already from the parking lot, we see plumes of smoke rising from the ground. What a bizarre location this is. Everywhere we look, there is steam or bubbling mud. The minerals give the area a unique color. Ropes indicate where you can safely walk. A few meters to the left or right lie bubbling springs. The sulfurous gases give off an unpleasant smell. Unfortunately, the shower moves over the mountain, and the rain intensifies. We try to keep the cameras dry. We get in the car and drive the last stretch for today to Húsavík. This harbor town lies about three quarters of an hour further north. In the center, just behind the church of Húsavík, we have an apartment. We received a code beforehand with which we can pick up the key. This is very well arranged. In the evening, we walk into Húsavík. Opposite the church are the companies that organize whale trips. We have tickets for tomorrow morning. The restaurant next to the ticket office looks cozy. Unfortunately, all tables are already reserved. We quickly reserve a table for tomorrow evening. A little further on is a second restaurant. Húsavík doesn’t seem to offer much more choice. Here too, the tables are occupied, but after waiting twenty minutes, a table becomes available. We order a drink and wait outside on the terrace.