Iceland > The Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Because of the time difference, we wake up early. At the breakfast buffet, this seems to be the case for the other hotel guests as well. It is quite a busy moment. We put together our breakfast at the buffet. It is strange to see that half of the guests wear face masks and the other half do not. We understood that masks are no longer mandatory in Iceland. Or has this changed? After breakfast, we walk back to Njálsgata where the car is parked. The streets are very quiet as we leave Reykjavik. It is Frídagur Verslunarmanna, the ‘Bank Holiday’ on the first Monday of August. From Reykjavik, we drive onto the Þjóðvegur, Iceland’s ring road. This road is also simply known as the ‘1’ because of its route number. The 1 circles the entire island and is 1,342 kilometers long. Only in recent years has the entire route been paved. We follow the ring road toward Borgarnes. We pass through the six-kilometer-long tunnel under the Hvalfjörður fjord. Normally, the speed limit outside towns in Iceland is 90 km/h, but inside the tunnel it is limited to 70 km/h. In the first kilometers of the tunnel, the road slopes downward. Even without pressing the gas, our car picks up speed. We carefully brake a bit. All travel guides warn that police actively enforce the speed limit and that fines are high.

Iceland - Stone pillars shaped by nature

We safely arrive at the other side again. Just before Borgarnes, we cross the Borgarfjörður fjord via the Borgarfjarðarbrú bridge. Tonight, we will stay overnight in this area. We now continue driving to the Snæfellsnes peninsula. On this peninsula lies the 1,446-meter-high Snæfellsjökull volcano. The volcano is covered year-round by a small ice cap. Right at the start of the peninsula lie the Gerðuberg Cliffs, an impressive basalt rock formation. Basalt pillars are created when hot lava suddenly cools quickly, for example by water. The mostly hexagonal vertical pillars look man-made but are truly a result of nature itself. Just in time, we see the small sign for the turnoff. There is no traffic behind us and by braking hard, we just manage to take the turn. A narrow road leads to the cliffs. Over a distance of more than a hundred meters, we see the basalt pillars. Impressive. We climb up to just below the pillars. I estimate the columns to be at least twenty meters high. Wouldn’t one ever fall? The next stage lies nearly 70 kilometers further. Near the village of Arnarstapi on the south coast of the peninsula lies a rugged coastline.

Iceland - The impressive Londrangar rock that rises 75 meters out of the sea

A walking path leads to the rocks. From a plateau, we see the Gatklettur Arch, a natural arch formed by seawater. Hundreds of seagulls have taken over the rocks for their nests. Their droppings give the rocks a white coating. Other rocks are also occupied by seagulls. Together they make quite a noise. We continue on the ring road looking for a lunch spot. By chance, we see a group of cars parked at a huge rock formation. We park there too. From the lookout platform, we see the impressive Lóndrangar, a rock that rises 75 meters out of the sea. At a picnic table, we have our lunch: a sandwich, toppings, and fruit juice. Behind us, we see snow on the Snæfellsjökull volcano. The peak is shrouded in clouds. We drive around the volcano to Ólafsvík. We pass old lava fields covered with moss—a magnificent sight. We had actually planned to have a drink in Ólafsvík, but we don’t see any hospitality venues. We walk through the village: the modern church, the sports field, and the harbor. Ólafsvík has little else to offer. It has fewer than 1,000 inhabitants. Iceland has 360,000 inhabitants, about 200,000 of whom live in the Reykjavik region. The rest of the country is very sparsely populated.

Iceland - The Kirkjufellfoss waterfall and the Kirkjufell mountain are a famous image of Iceland

We decide to continue to Kirkjufell mountain. This distinctive mountain often appears in images of Iceland and has frequently been the backdrop in films. Especially combined with the Kirkjufellfoss waterfall, the picture is complete. Unfortunately, the volcano is veiled in mist and fog, but the view remains beautiful. We are now on the northern side of the peninsula, heading back. From here, we drive back to Borgarnes. Along the way, we stop for photos at Lake Selvallavatn. Around five o’clock, we enter Borgarnes. First, we fill up the car with fuel. We have covered quite a distance. At a souvenir shop, the cashier speaks Dutch. She tells us she has lived in Borgarnes for 24 years but is originally Dutch. She also explains that there is a mask mandate again in shops due to rising infections. Opposite the parking lot is a restaurant, apparently the only one in Borgarnes. Although it is a bit early, we order a burger here. Our hotel is twenty kilometers outside Borgarnes. The Fossatún resort appears to be a kind of bungalow park, with cabins, a campsite, mobile homes, and some hotel rooms. Behind the cabins, there is a troll trail. Trolls and elves play an important role for many Icelanders. Many residents seriously believe they influence good and bad events. This troll trail is meant for children and leads to the top of some rocks. From there, we have a nice view of the waterfall and the Skarðsheiði mountains.

Iceland - Our cottage about twenty kilometers outside Borgarnes