Spain > Baeza and Úbeda

On the ground floor, a breakfast buffet is ready. It’s a good breakfast. At half past nine, we walk into Baeza. The streets are still quiet and shop owners are just opening their businesses. We first head to the viewpoint, the Mirador de las Murallas. It is a bit hazy today, but the view over the deep valley filled with countless olive trees is still beautiful. This region is known for its olive oil, and by far most of Spain’s olive trees are located here. Through narrow cobbled streets, we arrive at the cathedral. The church has just opened. At seven euros, admission is relatively expensive compared to the churches we visited in smaller towns. However, the ticket also includes access to the adjacent monastery and the church tower. This church is also beautiful, with altars and chapels richly gilded in gold—a recurring theme by now. The cathedral was built on the site of a former mosque after the Christian reconquest in the 13th century. In the 16th century, it received its current appearance. I walk around the cloister courtyard and climb the church tower, enjoying views over Baeza. In front of the church, young people are practicing with stretchers for the upcoming procession. Next to the square is the Fuente de Santa María, with a historic university building behind it.

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The University of Baeza is one of the oldest in the country. A little further on, we visit the Iglesia de la Santa Cruz. Unlike many other churches, this one is not decorated with gold but with ancient frescoes. It likely dates back to Roman times. Opposite it stands the Palacio de Jabalquinto, now part of the university. We are allowed to take a quick look inside the courtyard. While walking through the town, a police car arrives with sirens on. It turns out there is a running race taking place, and marshals are monitoring the intersections. We sit down at a terrace for coffee. Around noon, we return to the hotel, where our luggage is loaded into the minibus. We walk to our bus. From Baeza, we drive about 45 minutes to Úbeda. Like Baeza, Úbeda is a historic town full of monuments and churches. Online, I see that one of the top attractions is the Synagogue del Agua. The last guided tour starts at half past one, so I quickly head there. Although the tour is conducted only in Spanish, I still join and receive a written explanation in English.

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Before it begins, I try to read as much as possible. The synagogue was discovered by chance: a contractor bought three buildings at the beginning of this century to develop apartments. During construction, the remains of the synagogue were uncovered. This Jewish place of worship dates back to the 13th century. When Jews were expelled in 1492 during the Inquisition, the synagogue was filled in with earth. Using live translation on my phone, I can still follow most of the tour, although there is no reception in the basement areas. Here we see the ritual bath of the synagogue and a room with large clay jars. After about half an hour, the tour ends. I walk back to the square near the basilica, but both the church and chapel are closed. I wander through the streets of Úbeda instead. The terraces are busy, and I notice many locals as well. I pass through one of the city gates and walk along the old city wall.

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On a small square, I find a nice terrace to have something to eat. The waiter recommends a Plato Ibérico. I’m not exactly sure what I’ve ordered, but soon a large platter arrives with slices of cured meats and cheese—a kind of tapas board, probably meant for sharing. Together with a beer, I enjoy the meal. At four o’clock, everyone is back at the meeting point. We walk together to the bus. It’s about a two-hour drive to Granada. The hotel is located about two kilometers from the city center. For the evening, we decide to eat near the hotel and end up in a kind of casual diner. I order a burger, which tastes fine, although the other dishes are less successful. It can’t always be perfect. As a small bonus, each alcoholic drink comes with a tapas dish, which makes up for it a bit.