Spain > Arcos de la Frontera

It is busy at breakfast. A German and a Spanish tour group are having breakfast at the same time. Almost all tables are occupied, and cups and glasses still need to be replenished. While I am eating my breakfast, most of the other guests leave the room—they depart earlier. We leave the hotel at nine o’clock, this time with my luggage. Today we are heading towards Seville, where we will stay for the next three nights. On the bus, I read the travel guide about Seville. Before we arrive there, we make a stop in Arcos de la Frontera. This is one of the most impressive white villages in Andalusia. Arcos de la Frontera is located on top of a limestone cliff. From the parking area, we climb a staircase up to the town centre. As in Vejer de la Frontera, where we were yesterday, all the houses here are painted white. Shopkeepers are just starting to display their goods—the village is still waking up. We walk to the basilica, which is still closed but will open later in the morning. From the Plaza del Cabildo, we have a beautiful view of the church. In the corner, against the Castillo Ducal de Arcos de la Frontera, a door is open. A woman indicates that we can look inside and that it is free of charge—at least, that is what I think I understand from her quickly spoken Spanish. Opposite the square is the Parador hotel, one of the state-run hotels located in historic buildings.

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The receptionist tells us the bar opens at half past ten for coffee. At the convent, the Convento de Mercedarias Descalzas, the door is open. There is a small ticket window, where a man explains something in Spanish, though I do not fully understand it. A nun tells us the ticket booth has been repainted. The convent itself cannot be visited, but we can buy chocolates made by the nuns. I buy a box of bonbons. We continue to the viewpoint, the mirador, where we look out over the deep valley surrounding the town. I also see the Embalse reservoir in the distance. When we walk back, the sights have now opened. The San Pedro church looks rather plain from the outside, more like a fortress. Inside, however, it is richly decorated with gold and elaborate ornaments—what an abundance of wealth. The Basílica de Santa María de la Asunción is also open. We first climb the church tower and enjoy a stunning view over Arcos de la Frontera. The ticket seller warned us that the bells would ring loudly at eleven o’clock, so we are back down in time. The basilica itself is also beautiful, though less impressive than the San Pedro church. At the Parador hotel, we have coffee on the terrace with a beautiful view over the town and the valley.

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Before returning to the bus, we want to buy a sandwich to take with us, but we cannot find a bakery. In a café, we order a sandwich and take it away. At one o’clock, everyone is back at the bus. We continue towards Seville. The journey goes smoothly until we reach the capital of Andalusia, where we encounter traffic congestion. Around three o’clock, we arrive at the hotel, located in a suburb of the city right next to a metro station. I go to my room and take some time to relax. In the early evening, we take the metro to the city centre, arriving at the cathedral and the Alcázar palace. Unfortunately, we were unable to get tickets for this impressive palace—it was already sold out. Perhaps a good reason to return someday. As an alternative on Friday, I will join a cycling tour through the city with a Dutch-speaking guide. In a café, we order something to drink. In February 2021, during renovations, a 900-year-old Islamic bathhouse (hammam) was discovered beneath the café. The café now sits under these historic vaulted ceilings. It is a cosy place, and we decide to stay for dinner as well. After eating, we take the metro back to the hotel.