Eswatini (Swaziland) > Severe weather during the night

The rumble of thunder had been audible all evening and night. At two o’clock in the morning, the storm finally breaks. Lightning bolts shoot down on all sides. Since the campsite is located right on the top of the hill, we might just be at the highest point. The flashes are constant, with multiple discharges per second in every direction. I have never experienced a thunderstorm this intense. I lie in bed debating whether I dare to go to the toilet buildings to try and take a beautiful long-exposure photo. I decide to stay put. After more than half an hour, calm returns—thankfully without any accidents, and also without a photo. When I get up in the morning, I’m still quite tired.

Eswatini (Swaziland) - Shewula Mountain Camp Swaziland

I slept restlessly, probably due to last night’s heavy storm. Several of my fellow travelers feel the same. Outside, it’s dry. We pack our luggage and, after breakfast, leave Shewula, heading back to South Africa. Today we sit in the front row, which gives a great view. That view gradually becomes obscured by hundreds of flies smashing into the windshield. It gets increasingly difficult for the driver to focus on the road. These insects emerge only one day a year—and today happens to be that day. We stop at a wildlife park for a restroom break. According to Gerhardt, it’s not worth visiting. Meanwhile, the driver has the windshield cleaned, restoring his visibility. Soon after, we arrive at the border with South Africa. I receive two more stamps. The visa is still valid, so no new sticker is added. In Mkuze, we stop at a lodge for lunch. The gatekeeper opens the gate, and we drive into the courtyard. The lodge is excellent, with a large lunch buffet. This is quite a stark contrast to life outside South Africa. I’m struck by how the bus only takes us from one fenced lodge to another, giving no real impression of local African life.

Eswatini (Swaziland) - A tame lynx

Is this for safety reasons? It’s still about an hour’s drive to our overnight stop near Hluhluwe. The lodge is not in the village of Hluhluwe itself, but a few kilometers beyond. Upon entering the lodge’s gate, we realize there are still two kilometers to drive through the forest. The owner greets us warmly with a welcome drink. It’s still early, so we can take a walk through the park. There is wildlife here, but only zebras, giraffes, impalas, and other herbivores. Predators are absent. There are two lynxes, but they are tame and live with the owner. We walk through the woods but return quickly as another storm begins. Along the way, we hear animals and see tracks, but don’t encounter any of the creatures themselves. Just as we return to the bar, it begins to rain heavily. In the evening, we have a buffet dinner. We decide not to take the opportunity for a night game drive through the park.