Travelogue South Africa Swaziland Lesotho

16 November 9 December 2007 (24 days)


South Africa > Towards Cape Town

Dag 21 - Thursday, December 6, 2007

We have breakfast together in the cottage. Early this morning, the bus trailer was swapped. A new trailer was brought from Cape Town; the old one wasn’t working properly, says Hofard. It’s not entirely clear why—maybe because of the thick layer of dust on the bags yesterday, or perhaps due to yesterday’s police check. After breakfast, we drive to the dunes and the coast within the nature reserve. The owner of the reserve lives by the coast and told us last night that he had seen some whales in the sea yesterday.

South Africa - The beach in De Hoop Nature Reserve

Although the chance is very small, we might get lucky. At the parking lot by the coast, we get out and walk to the beach. The combination of nature, the sea, and the white sand is stunning. The dark, threatening clouds above us and the strong wind add to the dramatic scenery. However, with this wind, the chance of seeing whales is limited—if not zero. We peer across the ocean, trying to distinguish between foam and whales. Unfortunately, we only see waves. After about half an hour, we return to the bus. The area would be perfect for longer hikes, but we also want to have some time in Cape Town. It’s still about a three-hour drive to Cape Town—assuming we drive straight through. Along the way, we stop at a small shop-cum-café for coffee. Honestly, I ate and drank so much yesterday at the braai that I’m not hungry yet. I wander around the shop for a while. Three-quarters of an hour later, we stop again—this time for lunch. I suggest to Gerhardt that we drive straight to Cape Town, but he insists on stopping for lunch. The restaurant has a large antique store—an ideal spot for bus tours to pause. I don’t really need this, and I wouldn’t expect it from Sawadee.

South Africa - View over Cape Town from Table Mountain

We take a short walk around the area, but the restaurant is squeezed between a busy road and flat pastures. Combined with the strong wind, it’s not a very appealing place to walk, so we wait until everyone is ready. Finally, around three o’clock, we arrive at our hotel in Cape Town. The view of Table Mountain is excellent. Gerhardt had advised us to go straight to the mountain as soon as it’s visible, since sometimes it’s shrouded in clouds for days. But today, the wind is too strong for the cable car, so we can’t go up—maybe tomorrow. We stroll through the Company’s Garden to the city center—a beautiful, wide avenue through the park. The area feels friendly, but it’s no wonder there are constant warnings to stay alert in the city. Gerhardt advised against walking back to the hotel from the city center after five o’clock when shops start closing. In the city center, we check at the Tourist Information for options for an excursion to the Cape of Good Hope and Stellenbosch. I also want to see the Boulders Penguin Colony near Simon’s Town. After some calls, we find that many tours are already fully booked. We consider two half-day trips but are lucky to find a combo tour: Cape Point in the morning, Stellenbosch in the afternoon. That works perfectly, so we book the tour. We continue walking to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront complex. It’s rush hour, and the city is busy with people and traffic. Fortunately, the Waterfront is car-free. The V&A Waterfront is a lively entertainment area at the harbor, with shops, restaurants, and terraces. By the lighthouse, we enjoy a beer while watching the boats, the people around us, and, of course, Table Mountain in the background. We have dinner at a fish restaurant and take a taxi back to the hotel.

ShewulaThe houses outside the village center of Shewula
Little GateClimbing over the fence via a wobbly ladder
SwazilandChildren coming out of school in Swaziland
ChildrenThese children live a little distance outside the village