Travelogue South Africa Swaziland Lesotho

16 November 9 December 2007 (24 days)


South Africa > Kruger Park

Dag 4 - Monday, November 19, 2007

Today we are going to Kruger Park. When I wake up, the sun is already streaming through the curtains. It’s funny to see how much bigger the world seems now. From the breakfast room, we suddenly notice a steep gorge just behind the lodge—something we hadn’t seen earlier through the mist.

South Africa - Two impalas decide to cross the road in Kruger National Park

For the adventurous, there is a swing (zipline) over the gorge. The swing is currently closed, and it doesn’t look like it has been used recently. To avoid any problems with leaks, all the luggage is loaded at the back of the bus. The weather is beautiful today. Since the mist at God’s Window has lifted, we drive past this viewpoint again. It’s about ten kilometers outside Graskop. From the mountaintop, we can see the vast valley, a full 1,700 meters below. The nearby Forest Rain viewpoint also offers a spectacular view. On the way back through Graskop, we stop at the bank because some people need cash. The bank is still closed, but Gerhardt manages to get some biltong. He passes the dried meat around the bus. We drive east and descend into the valley. Immediately, I notice it’s getting warmer, and the sun is shining brightly. Along the way, we stop at a shopping center for an ATM and a restroom break. Here the cash withdrawal works fine. With money in hand, we head toward the Paul Kruger Park.

South Africa - A gnu grazing along the roadside

We enter the park via the Orpen gate. Even along the access road, we spot impalas, giraffes, and three buffalo—before even officially entering the park. At the Orpen entrance, I buy an overview map showing all the animals in Kruger Park. This helps us identify the wildlife and tick off which animals we spot. We’re staying in the Satara Campsite, about 50 kilometers inside the park. Already in the park, I start ticking off animals, and we see large groups of zebras and impalas crossing the road. Hofard proves to be a real tracker, pointing out various animals hiding among the bushes while also driving the bus through the park. He frequently stops for wildlife. Soon, we spot kudus, waterbucks, hippos, many wildebeests, and even an elephant. At the campsite, we decide to have lunch first. Sorting out the keys takes some time. The terrace in front of the restaurant feels warm and humid. In the afternoon, we relax in our cozy round house. All the houses are arranged in a large circle facing the courtyard.

South Africa - Night safari through Kruger Park looking for wildlife at sunset

We rest and do some reading. Later, when it’s cooler, we walk around the campsite. Squirrels dart away on both sides, and we spot various birds in the trees. At five o’clock, we gather for a sunset game drive. With an open truck, we drive into the park around sunset. Wildebeests, impalas, and buffalo stand right by the road. It’s all stunning to see—blue wildebeests, kudus, an elephant, and a few monkeys. As dusk falls, we use spotlights to search for more wildlife. In the distance, we see many glittering eyes, though it’s hard to tell what they belong to. On the way back, we spot a male lion lying in the middle of the road. The road is still warm for him. Two lionesses and a cub wander around him. He has no intention of moving, but the spotlight and camera flashes convince him to get up and walk away. Sadly, it’s too dark for good photos. By around eight o’clock, we’re back at the campsite.

ShewulaThe houses outside the village center of Shewula
Little GateClimbing over the fence via a wobbly ladder
SwazilandChildren coming out of school in Swaziland
ChildrenThese children live a little distance outside the village