Eswatini (Swaziland) > Walk through Shewula

Today’s program turns out to have quite a few uncertainties. The hike and picnic to the waterfall described in the itinerary, as well as the visit to the old mining village, are only possible from the other location. Gerhardt explains that we are reading Sawadee’s itinerary incorrectly. According to him, Sawadee has never stayed at the other location before. Gerhardt is enthusiastic about the visit to the school. In the afternoon, we can take a walking tour of the village. When I indicate that I would still like to do a similar walk, it seems difficult and complicated—no guide, no lunch… Eventually, though, it can be arranged if we really want to.

Eswatini (Swaziland) - Children playing soccer in the schoolyard

Yes, we do! A guide will accompany us for 20 Rand per hour. With a group of five, we definitely want this. After breakfast, we first head to the school. On the bus, we are already briefed about the project and the care for the children. Many of the children have AIDS, which is also a major problem in Swaziland. Many children have lost their parents at an early age. At the school, the project is explained again, emphasizing that there is absolutely no government support (the hint is clear). We meet Robert, the principal, and can make donations or buy souvenirs—all for the project. I’ve had enough of that for now and wander into the village. From all sides, children wave to me. Even at such a young age, they shout, “How are you?” I wave back kindly. When I return to the school, almost everyone has finished shopping, and we finally visit a classroom. The children look uneasy, but they must be used to this. When I sit among them, they seem less scared and are mainly interested in looking at the photos we’ve taken.

Eswatini (Swaziland) - During the walk we are guided by local youth

We attend the English lesson, giving the children a chance to practice. They’ve prepared a song for us, and in turn, we try to perform a Dutch song. Outside, older children are playing soccer. The ball is made of rolled-up plastic bags. I join in for a bit. The children are very skilled (I am not) and I carefully avoid stepping on anyone’s bare feet. From the school, we walk back to the lodge with a small group, about an hour’s walk. When we take a wrong turn, we are immediately called back and directed to the correct path. Soon, a group of schoolchildren accompanies us part of the way home. They practice their English sentences, we show them photos, and we play a few games along the route. By midday, it’s very warm. Through narrow paths, we walk past the village of Shewula, saying goodbye to the children one by one. One boy lives near the lodge and shows us the way. When we arrive at the lodge, the owner is surprised we are already back. She had intended to walk with us but we walked too fast (as we learn later). “Did you find the route yourselves?” she asks. After lunch, we go out with our guide, December. He is called December because he was born on December 25. Through narrow paths, we walk into the village and turn left onto the wide sandy road, leaving the village. December gives us lots of explanations about the village and life in Swaziland. Once again, our visit does not go unnoticed. Soon, a large group of schoolchildren join us on the way home (or take a slight detour to walk with us). Again, everyone says goodbye one by one. The last boy turns out to be an orphan raised by his grandmother.

Eswatini (Swaziland) - These children live a little distance outside the village

December shows us their yard. The grandmother approaches, looking disapprovingly at the short shorts of the women. When Rogier gives her a polo shirt, she is extremely grateful. We say goodbye and continue walking. At the end of the road, we reach a large pasture with all the community’s animals. The donkeys have claimed the vegetable garden, but December whistles to a few boys, and one rushes over to drive the donkeys out. The day ends at a viewpoint over the valley. Even here, children greet us, but they are clearly not in school. Their clothes hang loosely, showing poverty. From this point, we walk back through the village. By five o’clock, we are back nearby. December invites us to a beer tasting. We aren’t really interested, but he had already promised it to the owner. When we arrive, the tasting is already closed. By half past five, we are back at Shewula Mountain Camp. A local performance is taking place for the other travelers, and I quickly grab a beer—it’s well deserved, I think. In the evening, after dinner, the weather changes. A strong wind picks up, and rain is inevitable. Everyone is already in bed when Joost and I decide to go as well. As we blow out the oil lamps, we check our watch—it’s only half past nine. The fresh air is exhausting.