Indonesia > The habitat of the Batak tribes

Today I visit the Samosir Peninsula, the homeland of the Batak tribes. The Batak likely arrived three to four thousand years ago and settled around Lake Toba. My first stop today is Ambarita, where the king used to hold court. Serious criminals were also executed here in a brutal manner. The guide’s explanation is interrupted by over two hundred schoolchildren visiting the site. They giggle as they look at me, and I look back at them.

Indonesia - In Ambarita the king used to administer justice

I expect to encounter all the tourists I see here at the next locations, but hopefully that won’t be the case with this large group of children. Jeffrey drives me along the shores of Lake Toba to Simanindo. Along the way, I see traditional Batak houses. The roofs rise to a point on both sides, a kind of gabled roof. Even today, many houses are built in this style, though now they often have corrugated iron sheets for roofing. At Simanindo, there is an open-air museum where a traditional dance is performed twice daily. It’s sunny today, so it’s wise to arrive early. There are several old rice barns where you can watch the performance in the shade. I am lucky and take a seat in one of the houses. Fortunately, the schoolchildren haven’t arrived yet. The dance is performed by nine dancers, both men and women. The music comes from one of the traditional Batak houses. With the explanation included with my ticket, I can follow the different dances and read their meanings. Near the end, I am invited to join in. I am given an ulos (a type of scarf) and follow the dancers in circles. When I encounter other dancers, I loudly shout “Horas,” a local greeting.

Indonesia - A traditional Batak dance at the openair museum of Simanindo

The dance concludes with a depiction of the deceased king, whose figure is brought to life with strings. This is also the moment to leave a small tip. The accompanying museum is not very impressive. In Parbaba, I visit a traditional village. The Toba Batak houses are lined up next to each other. It’s hard to imagine that people still live in these houses today—and want to. The steep entrance stairs are extremely uncomfortable. Fortunately, inside, I can see the modern advances, such as televisions. In Buhit, I visit a second village, known primarily for its looms. Jeffrey apologizes that many women are at the weekly market today. Normally, the village is full of weavers. Still, two women are working. It is painstaking labor. They adjust the loom thread by thread to achieve their personal pattern on the fabric. One piece takes more than a week to complete. Although I admire their work, I have no desire to buy a piece, so I leave a tip for the women. I am now nearly at the other side of the island, where the peninsula connects to the mainland.

Indonesia - Traditional Batak houses are still in use on Samosir Island

Jeffrey drives me back past the village of Tuk Tuk to the viewpoint over Lake Toba. As we drive along the shoreline, more clouds form over the lake. It even seems to be raining on the other side. Jeffrey turns and drives the Toyota into the mountains. We climb higher and higher on a winding, very rough road. From over 1,200 meters above sea level, more than three hundred meters above the lake, I have a view over Lake Toba. In the valley below, I see the village of Tuk Tuk and the lodge. I also see dark clouds forming above the lake. It’s no longer a question of if it will rain, but when. I quickly head back down to Tomok to visit the tomb of King Sidabutar. The access road to the tomb is lined on both sides with souvenir shops. Shop after shop sells T-shirts and cheap souvenirs. I doubt anyone even sells anything on a given day. I greet the vendors politely and walk on to the tomb. The king’s face is carved into the tomb. With the visit to the royal tomb, my excursion day comes to an end. I drive back to Tuk Tuk. The schedule has run quite late. I was supposed to return between two and three o’clock, but it is now half past four. I’m not very hungry for lunch anymore, so I order a pastry from the German Bakery and a Bintang beer. In the evening, I eat at a local pizzeria. The owner is delighted with my visit. There are no other guests. The pizza tastes excellent. When I need to use the toilet, I have to walk straight through the living room to reach the back toilet. Quite unusual!