Indonesia > Face to face with an orangutan

I no longer see the squirrel in my room. Perhaps it is hiding, or maybe it has left the same way it came. In the restaurant, my breakfast is ready. The long-tailed monkeys pass by the restaurant on both sides. I keep a close eye on my backpack so they don’t get anything out. Some monkeys are also on the roof, peering down through the wooden slats. Suddenly, a full bottle of water falls from above. One of the monkeys has grabbed it but doesn’t know what to do with it, so he throws it down. Luckily, no one is hit. Today I am setting out for a long trek through Gunung Leuser National Park, home to orangutans.

Indonesia - An orangutan at the feeding area

Until a few years ago, the orangutans were fed twice daily, but now the feeding is being gradually reduced so that the apes become more independent. As a result, visiting a feeding station no longer guarantees seeing an orangutan. Therefore, I am going on a long trek through the park. At breakfast, I meet Lilic. He will guide me through the jungle today. After about fifteen minutes, we reach the park entrance. I look around, hoping to see animals. Nothing. Lilic makes a calling sound. From the distance, I hear a reply. An orangutan? Lilic bursts out laughing. No, it’s another guide. Orangutans don’t respond to human calls, but they often move in the trees when they hear them. This is how he hopes to locate them. Other guides and special spotters give signals when they’ve found an orangutan. We are called as well. Lilic rushes ahead. I follow him at a rapid pace through the undergrowth. My excitement builds. A little further on, Lilic points upward. A young female sits in the treetops. Amazing! Although my day could hardly get better, I continue searching for other orangutans. The trail constantly goes up and down. Last night’s rain has made the ground slippery, and the tree trunks are slick. I carefully descend to a small stream and climb steeply on the other side. It’s oppressively warm in the forest, and my T-shirt is soaked. At the feeding station, two orangutans are present. Earlier today, food was laid out, and these two apes hope a guide will secretly provide something extra. Unfortunately, that’s not allowed.

Indonesia - Orangutan Sandra climbs to the ground with her baby

This gives me a chance to observe the orangutans up close. After leaving the feeding station, we take a break with fruit—melon, banana, and passion fruit. Strangely, the monkeys do not come over. A peacock wanders by, though, to clean up the leftovers. Lilic tells me about Mina, an aggressive orangutan who demands food from the rangers. Lilic has been attacked by her before. When an orangutan moves in the trees in the distance, he first checks which one it is. The coast is clear—it’s Sandra with a young one on her back. She is just as curious to see us. She climbs down with her little one and approaches me to within a few meters. She looks me straight in the eyes. Incredible! When Sandra climbs back up the tree, we continue. Suddenly, Lilic stops. Something moves in the bushes. It’s Mina! She is with two young orangutans. Mina has already spotted the ranger and quickly climbs down. Lilic points out a safe spot for me to take photos while he pulls out a banana. Mina eagerly grabs the treat and immediately reaches out for the next one. This could take a while. Lilic shouts “Sandra” loudly and explains that Mina is afraid of Sandra. Behind me, the trees move—another orangutan is coming. Mina becomes nervous, abandons the banana, and rushes toward me. I duck out of the way. From where I was standing, she watches to see which orangutan is approaching. When she sees that it’s indeed Sandra, she flees. Sandra leisurely climbs down to eat the remaining food, and I can photograph her easily. After this thrilling encounter, I climb to a high mountaintop. On a steep and slippery trail, I gain height quickly. I can’t imagine walking here in heavy rain. Sometimes I have to use the roots for support. At the top, I take a short break. Lilic notices movement in the trees—is it Mina again? Just in case, I put my backpack on. It turns out to be Sandra; she is following me. Mina has also not stayed idle and is further along the trail.

Indonesia - A rickety hanging bridge brings me to the village of Bukit Lawang

Lilic signals me to wait. Mina is carefully distracted with bananas so I can pass—a tense moment. On the way back to the lodge, it’s time for lunch. In no time, a delicious nasi goreng with pineapple is served. Back at the lodge, I let the amazing experience sink in. In the afternoon, I walk into Bukit Lawang. I cross via a narrow and somewhat rickety suspension bridge, paying 2,000 IDR (€0.15). On the other side are souvenir shops. It’s Sunday, and many locals from Medan are enjoying the river. Children float on tubes, others swim in the fast-flowing water. I stroll past the stalls, which are close together, forming a covered street. At one of the small restaurants, I order a beer and watch the river from the terrace. On the other side of the river, I find a nice restaurant and order a pizza on a terrace by the water. The waiter warns it may take a while, which is fine—I’m comfortable and early. Almost two hours later, the pizza arrives, and it was worth the wait. It tastes excellent. Meanwhile, lightning begins, and a new rainstorm looms. I quickly pay and walk back. Unfortunately, I’m too late. Before reaching the Eco Lodge, the rain pours down in full force, even seeping through my umbrella. Ironically, the storm nearly ends just as I reach my cabin. I dry off and prepare for bed. Suddenly, I hear something moving on the bamboo ceiling above me. A mouse? In a flash, a small squirrel shoots down from the ceiling through my mosquito net. I am startled. It is probably looking for shelter, but why in my room? Using my flashlight, I search the room and look under the beds. Although I am convinced it must be hiding underneath, I find nothing. I decide just to go to sleep.