Indonesia > Sunrise at Bromo

Knock, knock. “It’s three o’clock, Sir!” I am woken up to watch the sunrise at Mount Bromo. I quickly get dressed. Karin had warned that it would be crowded at the summit. It’s Sunday, and many day-trippers also come specifically to see the sunrise at Bromo. In the dark, I can already see a line of car lights climbing the slope. Although I leave half an hour earlier than usual due to the crowd, it seems most people left even earlier. I get into a 4x4 and drive into the valley. Ekko, my driver, clearly does this often. In the dark, he navigates the valley. People are walking in the dark, and numerous scooters and motorcycles pass by. The scooters without lights try to follow the Jeeps’ light but struggle to stay upright in the loose volcanic ash.

Indonesia - A large crowd during sunrise at Bromo valley

Ekko drives steadily. As I start ascending the other side, he maneuvers the Jeep smoothly through the hairpin bends. The steep road allows for a rapid gain in altitude. It is a continuous line of cars climbing upward. As we near the top, Ekko mutters “full, full” and parks the vehicle on the side. On both sides, 4x4s are already parked. I have to walk the last part. I walk with the stream of people between the parked cars. Motorcyclists shuttle people up to the top for a tip. I conclude it must be quite a distance. Climbing at this hour and at 2,600 meters above sea level is no easy task. I ascend slowly, little by little. After about one and a half kilometers, I reach the summit. I estimate I have passed more than 200 cars. If each car dropped off five people, the summit must be packed. People are having breakfast at the stalls. It’s still dark and very crowded. The viewing platform is indeed jam-packed. I squeeze into the back rows to catch a glimpse of the sunrise. I’m lucky that the mostly local tourists are relatively small, so I can see over them. The only difficulty is keeping all the raised cameras out of the frame. I estimate there are about two thousand people gathered here, of which perhaps only fifty are Western tourists.

Indonesia - A surreal picture of Bromo volcano

On the horizon, the orange glow of the new day becomes visible. I see the crater valley awakening. Low clouds hang in the valley. I see two mountain peaks, which I assume include Mount Bromo. Looking to the right, I can see over the crowd the summit of the active Semeru volcano. Occasionally, a plume of smoke rises from the volcano. The sunrise is magnificent. As many people start to leave, some space opens up to take photos of the valley from the front. Looking at Semeru, I finally notice Mount Bromo below it—a sight I hadn’t seen before. What a stunning view! I quickly take photos of this breathtaking panorama. The volcanoes stand out beautifully against the valley filled with low-hanging clouds, giving a surreal impression. On the way back, I have to find my own car among the rows of vehicles. Many cars are also trying, honking, to make their way through the mix of cars and people. What a madhouse this is, and to think it happens daily! I had memorized my car’s license plate, but that wasn’t necessary—Ekko is already waiting and waves me over. He quickly drives me back to the hotel. Most day-trippers stop at Mount Bromo, where hundreds of 4x4s are parked. People shuffle in lines to ascend.

Indonesia - My accommodation in Kalibaru Cottages

I’m glad I saw this yesterday. I return to the hotel for breakfast. From the restaurant, I have a view of Mount Bromo. Slowly, the mist in the crater valley begins to lift. By nine o’clock, I get into a small Mitsubishi minibus and feel like I’ve already spent a whole day. The hotel minibus drives me down the mountain pass, where our own bus is waiting. Normally, this vehicle probably only transports children because my legroom is less than fifteen centimeters. I can’t sit upright due to the cramped distance between the seats. I sit diagonally, one leg in the gap, one on the bench. What a dreadful bus! In just over half an hour, we descend the mountain pass. I have to shift my position occasionally to avoid cramps. I am relieved to see our own bus again. Several buses are parked in the lot. Following the signs to the toilets, I find a line. Entire families are also using the toilet to shower, pouring water over themselves from the reservoir I would use to flush. It takes some time before it’s my turn. Today, the bus takes us to Kalibaru. It isn’t a very long distance, but at the end, we must cross a busy mountain pass. Karin warns that slow-moving trucks here can cause significant delays. I use the ride to try to catch up on sleep. Along the way, we make a coffee stop and a lunch stop with a buffet. Around half past three, we approach the mountain pass, where we encounter several heavily loaded trucks ahead of us. They crawl uphill on the winding road, making overtaking impossible. About an hour later, we reach the Kalibaru Cottages on the other side of the mountain—a luxury accommodation a few kilometers outside the village.