Peru > Machu Picchu in the mist

Finally — four o’clock! The luggage is wet, which is especially hard on the porters. Outside it’s still dark, but at least it’s dry. No one has really slept well. During breakfast — pancakes — it starts drizzling again. Not a good sign for Machu Picchu.

Peru - Despite the rain a magnificent view of the ancient Inca city a highlight of the trip

Wearing raincoats, ponchos on top, and flashlights in hand, we set off just after five o’clock toward Machu Picchu. After a few turns along a narrow path, we’re already standing in line at the checkpoint, which doesn’t open until half past five. After getting another stamp, we walk along the Inca Trail in a long line of hikers. The rain gives the whole scene a bleak impression. After about twenty minutes, it’s light enough to walk without a flashlight — which is good, since several batteries are already running low. Around half past six we approach the Sun Gate. From there, you’re supposed to have a magnificent view of Machu Picchu below. Unfortunately… Machu Picchu is completely covered by thick clouds. Luckily, Lucio can at least point out where the ruins are hidden beneath them. The disappointment is palpable among everyone.

Peru - The ruins of Machu Picchu

Lucio explains that it “almost never rains here — except for the past two weeks.” Just our luck. In the rain and mist, we descend toward the ancient city. Any hope of a view fades quickly, though Lucio keeps insisting there might still be a moment to take a photo. To our great surprise, at one of the viewpoints Machu Picchu suddenly appears between the drifting clouds — a fantastic and totally unexpected sight. After taking plenty of photos (sometimes waiting for another cloud to pass), we continue to the final checkpoint, where our four-day trek is officially stamped and completed. Then we visit Machu Picchu itself. Lucio gives explanations about the terraces, temples, and points out the thirty-two-cornered stone. He also explains how the Incas probably managed to fit the stones so perfectly together. Despite the constant rain, the visit is an unforgettable experience. At the end of the hour-and-a-half tour, we meet the other Baobab travelers who did the short Inca Trail. Kristina has Rita’s train ticket with her — she later tells us she had to dig it out of the hotel trash bin. Fortunately, Dennis is feeling better again. Around half past ten the weather improves, and it starts to clear up. Half of our group decides to go back into Machu Picchu for more exploring. We take the bus down to Aguas Calientes — a twenty-minute ride.

Peru - Train ride from Aguas Calientes to Cusco literally through the main street of the village

From there, the train departs back to Cusco. In Aguas Calientes, it starts raining again. We have an omelet in a pizzeria, placing our soaked jackets on the pizza oven to dry. After lunch, we take a walk through the town. It’s very touristy, but what’s striking are the traces of the recent mudslides from late March. Because of these, the train station became inaccessible; now the train stops on the main track. Some houses and a restaurant were badly damaged by the mud. After a visit to a painfully slow internet café, we pick up our luggage and have a beer while waiting for the train to depart. At 3:55 p.m., the train leaves. Everyone has reserved seats. The train travels through the valley along the Urubamba River toward Cusco as darkness slowly falls. The other travelers from the short Inca Trail get off just before Cusco and continue by bus — it’s faster that way. The train spends the last forty-five minutes zigzagging its way down into Cusco, moving alternately forward and backward to descend. At a quarter past eight, the train finally arrives at the station. We are taken to our hotel by minibus, where we enjoy a warm shower and go to bed right away.