Benin > Meeting the chief of the Taneka-Beri tribe

When I wake up, I can already hear the sounds of packing all around me. I quickly get dressed, wash up, and take down the tent. After breakfast, we leave Koussou-Koungou heading east. The first twenty kilometers are over a dusty dirt road. The dust hangs like a mist inside the bus. Just before Natitingou, we get onto an asphalt road and enter the town. Natitingou is one of the larger towns in northern Benin.

Benin - Two boys wrestling with each other

At a gas station, we stop briefly for Toto to make some purchases. I walk along the stalls lining the wide main road. It is still before nine in the morning, and it is Sunday. The streets are quiet, and even the market is not yet in full swing. Across the street, I hear singing. A children’s choir is performing at the Jerusalem Evangelical Church. When I walk onto the grounds to take a look inside, I am immediately invited in. I decide to keep my visit modest and just take a quick peek. We continue south. Our local guide, Mohammed, leads us through several villages. Along the main road, we visit a Fulani village. The Fulani are nomads who move around—some travel with their livestock, while others stay in one place for longer periods. In this village, the nomads have settled for a while. The village consists of only a few houses. We are greeted by the two children present. Unfortunately for them, everyone wants to take their photo, though they seem to enjoy it. We also meet the village elder. I am even allowed to take a photo inside a small kitchen under a thatched roof. A little further along, at a fork in the road, we meet the chief of Taneka-Beri. He accompanies us a short distance in the bus to his own village. Taneka-Beri is a somewhat depopulated village. Many men have left for the city because there is too little income to be earned locally. Many houses have fallen into disrepair and are empty. Mohammed guides us through the village, which has an estimated one hundred houses. We explore the courtyards, meet the residents, and the local children lead us to the chief’s residence. Chief Tiniguassawa warmly welcomes us into his reception area. He is dressed in a blue-and-white robe with an ornate headdress.

Benin - The village of TanekaBeri

In his hand, he holds an engraved staff depicting a lion and an elephant. Using a colorful fan, he keeps himself cool. In his own language, he proudly speaks about his tribe. Mohammed translates into French, and Anani then into Dutch. Through this chain, he answers all our questions. Afterwards, we are allowed to take photos. We all do so at the same time, which is a bit awkward. The chief looks straight ahead, proud, at the cameras. I wonder what he is thinking inside. Further in the village, we meet the feticheur, the local healer. Wearing only a goatskin, he speaks to us. Surrounded by many village children, he explains the fetishes and his abilities. He claims to be ninety years old. We drive back to the main road for lunch. Toto and Abbass have prepared a delicious omelet. After lunch, we return to Natitingou and arrive at the Tata Somba Hotel. This is the most luxurious hotel in northern Benin. While it is a fine hotel, its title mostly comes from the relative quality compared to other hotels. I take a – unfortunately cold – shower to wash off the dust of the past few days. In the afternoon, I take a dip in the hotel pool and read my book. In the evening, we all have dinner together at the hotel.