Benin > From north to south Benin

A travel day lies ahead. Today we will cross a large part of Benin from north to south—a distance of nearly 400 kilometers. Although the roads in Benin are much better than in Togo, the journey still takes the whole day. It is still dark when my alarm goes off. Travel companions are already packing their belongings. I put away my sleeping bag, get dressed, and take down the tent in the dark. During breakfast, the light slowly returns. By seven o’clock, we are all ready to depart, though the truck still needs to be loaded, especially with the kitchen equipment. With about a half-hour delay, we finally set off. We are waved goodbye by the headmaster of the school in Moupemou. Over the bumpy, dusty roads, we head back to the main road. Once on the asphalt, I open my book while the landscape passes by kilometer after kilometer. Around lunchtime, we reach Bandé. Progress is going well.

Benin - When striking a stick at the offering place one must recite the wish three times to oneself

It is clearly visible that the landscape here is much greener. The heat also feels humid again, like at the start of the trip along the coast of Togo. We have lunch at a small restaurant on an upper floor, furnished with a few sofas. Toto has once again gone all out with salad, rice, tomatoes, and meat. We continue driving. The road turns into a tollway. Along the way, there are several police checkpoints. In Benin, there are many more checks compared with Togo. When the officer’s whistle blows, we must stop. Our bus is frequently asked to show the passenger list. Undoubtedly, the officer hopes to make a little money from this. Near Dankoly, several dozen kilometers north of Bohicon, we visit a voodoo sacrificial site. Many Beninese come here to consult voodoo and bring offerings once their guidance has been received. During the consultation, the visitor sticks a small rod into the offering mound while silently making a wish. The rod is then poured over with red oil and palm wine, and finally, some coins are offered. A girl’s task is to immediately retrieve the coins from the muddy mound. The voodoo offerings strike me as both bizarre and impressive. Around five o’clock, we arrive in Bohicon. Bohicon is a large city without many distinguishing features. We only stop here because it is near Abomey. The hotel is on the outskirts of the city, far from the center. I take a shower, using the warm water to soak the dirt from my feet as it flows down the drain. In the evening, we dine at the hotel restaurant. We had actually planned to eat at the restaurant across the street, but we do not dare. The food is simmering in pots, but we do not know for how long. I end the evening with a short walk along the road by the hotel and a beer on the terrace.