Latvia > Riga, the beating heart of the Baltics

It rained heavily through the night. With rain gear ready, we walk to the old town. From the hotel, we follow Valdemara Street toward the Daugava River. This busy road serves as the main artery in and out of the city center.

Latvia - The cloister next to the Dom Church

I have to get used to the fact that cycling on the sidewalk is common here — probably not officially allowed, but far safer than riding on the roadway. The cyclists, by the way, overtake calmly. Along the way, we pass the National Theater, where Latvia’s independence was declared in 1918. We cut through Jekaba Park to the Arsenal and enter a narrow street lined with very old warehouses. At the Bishop’s Castle in Riga, the rain intensifies briefly, and we take a break on a covered terrace. The rain soon stops, and the sun even breaks through. We continue to the Dome Square. The enormous Riga Dome is simply too large to capture entirely in a photograph. Inside, I find the nave less impressive, but the adjacent monastery garden is truly remarkable. From Dome Square, we walk onward toward Town Hall Square. This square suffered heavy damage during World War II, and all the buildings were rebuilt. The beautiful Town Hall dates from 2001, and the ornate façade of the House of the Blackheads was reconstructed as well. Nearby, St. Peter’s Church is authentic, although its tower has collapsed several times due to fire and lightning.

Latvia - View over the old center of Riga

During the latest restoration, a lift was also installed in the church tower. From the viewing platform, 75 meters above the city, we enjoy a splendid view of Riga’s old town. From up here, we can clearly see the streets we walked this morning, as well as the buildings we still want to visit. Next to St. Peter’s Church, we visit the much smaller St. John’s Church. Exactly between the two churches, we sit at a terrace for lunch. Just as we finish paying, the sun disappears and a downpour begins. The weather had been so nice just moments ago! We take shelter under the umbrella. When the rain eases slightly, we walk through the drops via the gate next to St. John’s Church to the former monastery. This brings us to the square of the Great Guild. Directly opposite the Guild House stands the “House of the Cats.” Around 1900, an angry merchant placed two cats on the top of his house in protest against the Guild, positioning them with their tails turned toward the Guild House. Through the Powder Tower, the Swedish Barracks, and the Swedish Gate, we reach the “Three Brothers,” the oldest houses in the city, leaning gently against one another. They look a bit bleak in the rain, and we decide we’ve seen enough. On the way back to the hotel, the sun breaks through again, and it immediately feels warm. Along Valdemara Street, we enter the red-brick building of the Art Academy for a quick restroom stop. Directly behind this building stands the large Russian Orthodox Church. Its golden domes reflect beautifully in the sunlight against the dark clouds, and inside the church, the icons are magnificent. We end the afternoon in the sky bar on the 26th floor of the Radisson Hotel. With a beer and the local Balzams liqueur in hand, we take in the panoramic view over Riga. In the evening, we have dinner at an outdoor terrace near the hotel.