Estonia > In the catacombs under old Tallinn

After breakfast, we set out again with our Tallinn Card in hand. We decide to try the Hop-on Hop-off tourist bus once more. At the bus stop, it becomes clear that there are three different companies, and one of their logos looks very similar to the Tallinn Card logo but does not grant the same access rights. Conclusion: our bus isn’t included. Since all public transport is covered by the card, we hop on the first bus that arrives. We ask the driver of line 2 if he is heading toward the city center, and after he confirms, we take our seats. The first stop is at the modern city center. The old town lies just behind it. We assume the next stop will be closer to the old town. Unfortunately, our assumption proves wrong—the bus turns left and drives away from the center. We get off at the next stop, but by then we’re already quite a distance away. Across the street, we catch a tram back toward the city center.

Estonia - View over the city of Tallinn from St Olafs Church

With some help from bystanders, we get off at the edge of the old town. Since the tourist buses also depart from here, we decide to ask for clarification. Here we finally find the company that partners with the Tallinn Card. As it starts to drizzle lightly, we board the bus and ride around the city toward the Upper Castle Hill. On the way, I listen to the commentary through the headphones. We get off one stop later, at Toompea Castle—saving ourselves a steep climb uphill. It’s crowded with tourists, as all the buses drop their groups off here. We walk around the castle walls and past the Long Herman, the tallest corner tower of the castle. The castle itself is not open to visitors—not even to Tallinn Card holders. Directly opposite stands the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The Russian Orthodox church occupies a prominent place on Toompea Hill, the Cathedral Hill. I join the stream of visitors entering the cathedral. Inside, the cathedral is magnificent, but the sheer number of people makes it overwhelming, so I step back outside to wait for my travel companions. From Cathedral Hill, we enjoy the view over Tallinn—it looks completely different by daylight. I also find the “Kodak spot” from the guidebook near the Dome Church. This Gothic church, dating from the 14th century, is also busy, but we go in anyway. The guidebook highlights the tomb on the altar, designed in 1595 by the Dutch sculptor Arent Passer. Despite the crowds, someone allows us behind the altar for a closer look, asking only that we refrain from taking photos. Through a small gate, we enter the Danish King’s Garden. In this quiet little courtyard lies a charming terrace with a view over the city. Unfortunately, there’s no free table. Near the old Maiden Tower, an inviting sign reads “Coffee.” We climb the narrow stone spiral staircase to the narrow parapet walk, where just enough chairs are lined up for us to sit and enjoy a coffee. Descending further down Cathedral Hill via small stairways, we arrive at St. Nicholas Church. This white Baroque church now serves as a concert hall—it’s closed today. Next to it stands a less conspicuous Swedish Church. The caretaker shows us the ongoing restoration work. During the Russian occupation, the church was used as a gymnasium for soldiers. Only a small group of people in Tallinn belong to the Swedish congregation, making it difficult to raise enough funds for the restoration. Crossing the large open Independence Square, we reach “Kiek in de Kök” (“Peek into the Kitchen”). This was the strongest tower of the medieval defense wall and now houses a museum. As I climb higher, I can literally look into the surrounding houses, understanding the origin of the tower’s name.

Estonia - The Town Hall Square

Beneath the tower lies the Bastion—a network of underground tunnels stretching hundreds of meters between various towers. Part of it has been restored. Normally, the Bastion is closed to visitors on Mondays and Tuesdays, but after some persuasion, we’re allowed in as a small group together with a Swedish family. The guide wears a thick coat and advises me to take a blanket. Descending the stairs, I quickly understand why—it’s about five degrees Celsius down there. Wrapped in the blanket, I follow the guide through the tunnels. The tunnels once served as troop passageways, shelters, and command posts. We walk about 500 meters under Tallinn. Occasionally, screens display footage from cameras above ground. The tour ends with a futuristic little train ride through the tunnel, accompanied by a film about Estonia’s history. When we step outside into the sunshine again, it’s already past 2:30 p.m. We stop at a terrace near the square for a sandwich. Our plan for the afternoon is simple—we’ve already seen most of the major sights we wanted to visit. Only the old Pharmacy and the Town Hall remain. We hurry to Town Hall Square just in time; the Town Hall closes at four o’clock. We slip in at the last moment, and the door closes behind us. The old Town Hall dates back to 1404. Both the Council Chamber and the Citizens’ Hall are beautiful. In the attic, the impressive timber beams of the old building are visible, while the basement—once used as dungeons—houses an exhibit on the building’s history. We’re the last visitors to leave. Across the square stands the old medieval pharmacy. In the windowsill sits a glass orb filled with blue liquid, reflecting the Town Hall Square—a fun photo opportunity. At a terrace behind the pharmacy, we order our complimentary Tallinn Card coffee, but just as we sit down, a heavy downpour begins. We push our chairs as far under the parasol as possible to stay dry. As a result, we arrive too late at the old prison just behind the Town Hall. The photography museum housed inside closes at 5:30. After knocking, we’re allowed in for a quick visit, handing over our cards without delay. We end the day with a photo of the Viru Gate—the central entrance to the old town. I climb the grassy hill to take the last of the four photos from the guidebook. Content and tired, we walk back to the hotel.