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Travelogue Kenya and Tanzania

January 14 February 4 2023 (22 days)


Zanzibar > Walking along the beach

Dag 19 - Wednesday, February 1, 2023

I wake up to the sound of waves on the beach. I take a shower and join the others for breakfast. The sun is shining, and the sea glows a beautiful blue. A few fishermen are out at sea with their dhow boats, with just enough wind to move them along. Around half past ten, I set out for a walk along the beach with two travel companions. It is low tide. Patrick has warned us that later in the day it will no longer be possible to reach all the beaches, as the tide will be too high. Several people offer us boat trips and snorkeling tours, but today our goal is Baobab Beach. Based on the pictures, it seemed like a beautiful beach. We walk along the northern side of Nungwi, mainly visited by locals. When we round the bend to the western side, we pass more resorts. The beaches here are stunning — every bay feels like a piece of paradise. The passages from bay to bay are sometimes narrow, and it’s clear that the water level is already rising. I take off my shoes and wade through the surf to reach the next bay. When we ask about Baobab Beach, it turns out we have already passed it.

Zanzibar - On the beach in northern Zanzibar

We decide to keep going toward Kendwa Beach. Patrick had previously told us he thinks Kendwa Beach is the most beautiful beach in Nungwi. We’ve been walking for a while and want something to drink. A stilted restaurant above the sea looks like a good option, but access is only for hotel guests. At the next lodge, a security guard blocks us as well. When we try walking up some steps further along, we are called back — we don’t have the resort’s wristband. All the guards point us toward Kendwa Beach around the corner, where we can get something to drink. We walk onto the grounds of Sunset Kendwa. No one tells us we can’t be there, so we sit down at the bar. It’s past one o’clock by now. I order soup and a cola. The bartender explains how to reach the main road, and the resort gate is opened for us. We walk back through Nungwi’s sandy streets. It’s hot and dusty, with the sun directly overhead and no shade in sight. After about an hour, we are back at the Mnarani Beach Cottages resort. We quickly order drinks at the bar — I also get a large bottle of water. In my bungalow, I take a refreshing shower, then relax on a beach bed, enjoying the sound of the waves. Around six o’clock, I check in for tomorrow evening’s KL515 flight.

Zanzibar - After a long walk enjoying a soup for lunch

I have a window seat. An hour later, I get a message from KLM with a surprise — the flight is delayed by exactly 24 hours. As a group, we contact both Sawadee and KLM, but everyone seems to be pointing fingers at each other. Meanwhile, Patrick is already trying to book suitable rooms in Stone Town, but our previous hotel doesn’t have enough availability. The delay overshadows the farewell dinner. The staff has set a table by the sea for us. Tonight is supposed to be our last evening together — although it’s quite possible we’ll dine together again tomorrow. During the meal, we thank Patrick for guiding the trip. He arranged everything perfectly, was an excellent spotter, and surprised us with extras like an additional pool visit in Mago. His “Why not?” in response to our questions became a trademark. For dealing with the delay, we agree to decide tomorrow at breakfast what to do next. Many travel companions now have stomach problems, and I haven’t escaped either. I make one last proper visit to the toilet, then crawl into bed.

Swimming poolSwimming in the Mago region
Selling from a carVegetables and fruit sold from a car
Tea plantationTea plantations along the roadside
Deep valleyHiking in the Kerio Valley