Romania > The Alba Carolina Citadel

Today we can take it easy. We have the whole day to visit the historic fortress of Alba Iulia. In the supermarket beneath the apartment complex, we try to gather breakfast. This only works moderately well. Today we make do with bread and Nutella. In the apartment itself there is a Senseo coffee machine. It’s already after eleven when we walk into the city. The sun is shining and it is oppressively warm. The clouds in the distance above the mountains signal a thunderstorm. The Alba Carolina, as the fortress itself is called, was founded in the eighteenth century by the Habsburgs. They copied the star-shaped design from the French architects of the time of Napoleon XIV. Even before that time, Alba Iulia was the capital of Transylvania. The Alba Carolina was built over earlier rectangular fortifications. Since 1918, this region officially belongs to Romania and Alba Iulia is no longer a capital. We walk along Mihai Viteazul, the main street within the fortress. We go from the West Gate to Poarta III on the east side. The changing of the guard takes place at twelve o’clock at this gate. When we arrive, it turns out the changing of the guard only happens on weekends. Unfortunately. We order coffee on the terrace by the historic gate. The construction of the fortifications can be viewed behind the Medieval Hotel.

Romania - The entrance gate to the Alba Carolina fortress

Here it is explained how the fortifications were expanded over the years. From the fortress wall, we see the surrounding city. From here we can clearly see how the star-shaped construction was built. Underneath the defensive wall are rooms with walls up to three meters thick. We also visit the historic prison in the fort. In this prison, the leaders of the peasant revolt against the Habsburgs were held. While we are looking at the fortifications, the sky above us darkens. Dark clouds hang over the city. The question is not if it will rain, but when. We take a seat on a terrace for lunch. Just as we place our order, the wind picks up strongly. The waitress suggests we move inside the restaurant. The staff quickly brings the cushions inside and folds up the parasols. They are just in time before a heavy shower breaks loose with thunderclaps.

Romania - The Orthodox church and the old Catholic cathedral next to each other

Suddenly, all phones start to beep. Ours included. An official weather warning is given for heavy rain in a short time. We don’t suffer from this now, as the food is just being served. After lunch it is practically dry again. We walk to the Orthodox Cathedral. The cathedral was built in 1921, in honor of the Great Union of 1918, when Transylvania joined the Kingdom of Romania. The church is built in the shape of a Greek cross with a spacious courtyard surrounded by a colonnade. The cathedral is dedicated to the Holy Trinity and serves as the seat of the Archbishop of Alba Iulia. Inside, the church is richly decorated with icons, frescoes, and an impressive iconostasis made of wood and gold leaf. The adjacent Catholic Cathedral of Saint Michael dates from the 11th century. Compared to the Orthodox cathedral, this Romanesque-Gothic church is more simply furnished. I decide to climb the tower. The climb starts via a narrow stone staircase.

Romania - The entrance to the fortress in Alba Iulia

Then I can go higher up the tower via wooden stairs. Strangely enough, the stairs on the upper floors are suspended. At each stair, there is a few centimeters of clearance from the ground, causing the stairs to move back and forth. Without too much trouble, I reach the top. Through the windows, I look out over the city. After visiting the churches, we walk a bit along the fortress walls. In one of the inlets between the bastions, there is a restaurant with a terrace. Here I order a Citadel beer. A nice conclusion to the tour of the Alba Carolina fortress. It is no coincidence that the citadel is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the evening, we go to eat at a restaurant just outside the historic fortress. Today I choose pizza.