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Travelogue Along the Polish Cities

November 212 2017 (11 days)


Poland > The old town of Krakow

Dag 9 - Friday, November 10, 2017

The last day in Krakow has begun. Today we visit the old center of the city. We start our walking tour in the old Jewish quarter because our hotel is also located here. Right on the corner of the street stands the first Jewish temple. As early as the nineteenth century the Jewish population concentrated in the Kazimierz district. Just before the Second World War, 67,000 Jewish residents lived here. During the war, the Germans first expelled the Jews to the Podgorze district on the other side of the Vistula River. Later they were deported to Auschwitz. The outcome is well known. From the market square we continue through the narrow streets to Szeroka Square, still in the Jewish quarter. On the south side stands the old synagogue. After the war, the synagogue became a museum. Today, only a few hundred Jews still live in the Kazimierz district. In addition to the exhibition on Judaism in Poland, the synagogue also holds the original iron Bimah (platform from which preaching was done) in its center. Photographs show what the synagogue must have looked like before the war. From Szeroka Square we walk to the Rynek square in the old town. As we cross the Rynek, trumpet calls sound from the tower of St.

Poland - The beautiful interior of St Marys Church

Mary’s Church. It is eleven o’clock. Every hour the trumpet sounds from the tower. Around the square stand beautifully decorated townhouses. In the middle of the square is the Cloth Hall, an old marketplace now mainly used by souvenir shops. In the corner stands the tower of the old town hall. The town hall itself has been demolished. It is striking that the center of Krakow emerged relatively unscathed from the war, certainly compared with the other Polish cities we visited earlier. Through the streets on the west side of the square we pass old theaters and cafes. On a little corner we stop for coffee. Good timing, because outside it suddenly starts to rain heavily. When we step out again, the rain has stopped. We continue toward the northern city gate. At Matejki Square begins the Royal Route, which runs through the old city all the way to the royal castle on Wawel Hill. Today the Royal Route is an important shopping street, lined with grand buildings that house well-known retail chains. The route also passes across the Rynek and along St. Mary’s Church. Tourists can visit the church by buying a ticket. This ticket also grants access to view the altar and the choir up close. The church has a magnificent Baroque interior. The high altar is the largest in Europe, eleven meters wide and thirteen meters high. Back at the market square we continue our walk along the Royal Route.

Poland - The cathedral inside the Royal Castle

On both sides we see remarkably beautiful houses interspersed with church buildings. Halfway along we visit the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Then we continue to Wawel Hill. High above the old town and the Vistula River stand the cathedral and the royal castle. We buy a ticket for the cathedral including an audio tour. With an extensive explanation, we are guided through the church. The cathedral is one of the most important churches in Poland. The interior is a special mix of Baroque, Renaissance, and Gothic styles. In the center of the church stands the shrine of Saint Stanislaus, a bishop murdered by King Boleslav. Through narrow wooden stairways we climb into the bell tower, where a large bronze bell hangs. From the tower we have a view over the old city of Krakow. We can see the towers of St. Mary’s Church and the town hall tower. Back in the cathedral we follow the route past the high altar and various chapels. We end the tour through the cathedral with a visit to the crypt beneath the church. Here Polish kings are buried, though we cannot tell exactly who lies where. We let the audio tour go and head for the exit. We also skip the royal castle. We descend back into the old town to find something to eat in the narrow streets. Via the park along the old city walls we walk all the way to the other side of the city. The green strip between the old and newer parts of the town is an oasis of calm. At the road leading back toward the Jewish quarter we turn off toward the hotel. Near the hotel we end the afternoon with a beer. We have seen much of the beautiful city of Krakow today. For the evening there are many nice and cozy restaurants in the Jewish quarter. We end up at a typical Polish restaurant. We order a kind of goulash with sauerkraut. A tasty choice.

St John the Baptist CathedralSt John the Baptist Cathedral in Wroclaw
Old SynagogueThe old synagogue in the Jewish quarter
Historic StreetOne of the historic streets in the old center of Gdansk
BarracksThe barracks in Birkenau are even more primitive