Poland > Impressive Auschwitz

Poland - The impressive entrance gate of Auschwitz concentration camp

The city of Krakow is closely connected to the history of the Second World War. About sixty kilometers from Krakow stood the largest Nazi extermination camp: Auschwitz. At nine o’clock we drive out of Krakow by car and head toward Oswiecim. Oswiecim is the current Polish name for Auschwitz. After a little more than an hour we arrive at the parking lot of the museum complex. Although visiting the site is free of charge, we booked a guided tour in English. At exactly half past ten, the guide takes us along. We enter the grounds of Auschwitz. At the entrance gate with the infamous words “Arbeit macht frei,” she explains that the Germans chose this location because dozens of barracks were already standing here. In these barracks, mostly Jewish prisoners were held under dreadful conditions. Through photos displayed inside, we see how deported Jews arrived by train from all over Europe and how the selection took place—who would be put to work and who was sent directly to the gas chambers. The vast majority of Jews who arrived at Auschwitz were murdered within a few hours. In 1944, so many Jews were brought here that the camp could no longer cope with the influx. Horrifying. Besides photographs, the barracks also display personal belongings—whole rooms filled with shoes and abandoned suitcases. Some barracks remain in their original state.

Poland - Hundreds of trains arrived at the camp via this gate

Here we see the small rooms with makeshift mattresses, which dozens of people had to share. At the end of the tour through Auschwitz I, we visit the gas chambers. Our guide explains that no gas ever came from the showers here, but rather that cans of gas were thrown inside through small openings. In the adjacent ovens, the corpses were burned. A few kilometers from Auschwitz I lies Auschwitz II–Birkenau. This concentration camp was much larger in scale and focused above all on killing large groups of Jews as efficiently as possible. Up to 5,000 people per day could be murdered and cremated here—day after day. The complex contained hundreds of extremely primitive barracks. An old railway wagon stands as a silent witness to the horrific transports. The railway track leading into the main gate has become a monument in itself. At the end of the war, the Nazis blew up the gas chambers in this vast complex in an attempt to erase their crimes. They did not succeed. The remains of the camp are profoundly moving. After three hours, the walking tour comes to an end. Deeply impressed, we drive back toward Krakow. We decide not to return via the highway, but through the back roads. Just before Zator, we notice on the navigation system a striking lake area. It looks as if a road runs straight through the water. Curious, we turn off to take a look. The narrow road indeed runs over a dike between ponds and lakes. A beautiful natural area, with the hazy light making it appear even more atmospheric. In Zator we park the car in the village center. At a small restaurant on the village square we order soup and coffee. The owner doesn’t speak a word of English, but somehow we manage to make ourselves understood.

Poland - The Rynek of Krakow in the evening

Afterwards, we take the back roads back to Krakow, a journey of about an hour. The navigation system adds a little surprise—the route even includes a ferry crossing. At the quay, a small ferry is waiting, just big enough for two cars. We can board straight away. The skipper looks surprised at our Dutch license plate on his boat. A few minutes later we disembark on the other side and continue toward Krakow. By early evening we are back in Krakow’s old town. We stroll across the Rynek, the central square, and from there to the Royal Castle. Tomorrow we will explore the city more thoroughly, following a walking route from our travel guide. For now, we settle down in a small restaurant on the edge of the old town. After dinner, we end the evening with a walk across the bridge over the Vistula River. From the bridge we enjoy a splendid view of the Royal Castle.