Montenegro > Lost on the way to Kolašin

I wake up to the sound of a cow mooing right next to my hut. It is grazing by my hut and occasionally bumping into the wooden wall. It’s half past six. I turn over for a little longer. Around eight o’clock everyone gathers at the breakfast table on the campgrounds. We have breakfast together here. Some people are going horseback riding today, others are heading to Lake Biogradska. The two German ladies offer me a ride to Kolasin.

Montenegro - The interior of the cottage at Campsite Vranjak

I decline, because I want to walk. At nine o’clock I set off. The lodge owner explains with gestures how I should walk the first stretch. I also have the route on the map. Today’s route is a bit longer, but mostly downhill. I follow a partly paved road in the direction of Krivi Do. At a junction it is unclear for a moment where to go. I thought Bosco had said straight ahead, but Kolasin is indicated to the right. By chance two boys stop in an old Golf. From their explanation I gather that I should first go straight and then turn right later. I follow the beautiful road through the rolling landscape. When the road bends left, I need to go right. I turn onto a cart track between the trees. The trail winds through the forest, mostly downhill. I pass a chairlift of the Kolasin ski area. Eventually the trail leads over the ski slopes. Strange to walk here without snow. In the distance I see the eco-lodge Vranjak again on the opposite mountainside. I feel as though I should have walked further left in the valley. When I reach the bottom of the ski slope at the ski area’s restaurant, a woman shows me on the map where I am. I’ve followed a trail not marked on the map, but I am now back on the main road at the base of the mountain. I should have stayed higher up. I could now follow the main road into Kolasin, but that’s a long and boring route.

Montenegro - Crossing the stream over a narrow bridge

The idea of climbing 500 meters back up doesn’t sound too appealing either. I decide to walk a short stretch along the road and then try a nearby mountain bike trail to climb back up. At the first crossing I turn off. So said, so done, but the trail turns out to be barely passable. It’s definitely not suitable for mountain bikes. I follow a narrow track and cross a stream using a plank. The trail is completely overgrown. I try to follow faint traces of earlier hikers. At times I push through vegetation as tall as myself. Is it really wise to take this route? I scramble through the bushes, keeping the original but completely overgrown cart track as my guide. After nearly three-quarters of an hour climbing, I reach a point where the trail is hardly traceable anymore. I face a choice: either try to fight my way straight uphill through the forest or turn back. Judging from the map, I think I’m about halfway up the mountain. I make one more attempt, but when it gets too steep, I decide to return. Especially since I hear thunder approaching in the distance. On the main road I know what to expect, but not on top of the mountain. I retrace my steps through the bushes back to the little stream. There I sit down for lunch. The sky is darkening above me, but it’s still dry. After my break I follow the main road. I estimate it’s still about two hours’ walk to Kolasin. Above me the clouds creep over the mountains. The thunder comes closer as well. It starts raining. I pack all my valuables inside supermarket plastic bags in my backpack. I don’t have any rain gear with me, so I’ll just have to get wet. When the rain becomes very heavy, I shelter for a while under some trees. Luckily they keep off most of the water. As soon as possible I continue walking.

Montenegro - The centre of Kolain

I won’t be dry again anytime soon anyway. Just past Reijka Musovica a car approaches from behind. I stick out my thumb to hitchhike. The driver immediately stops and opens the door. He offers me a ride into Kolasin. From the car I see how far I still would have had to walk. The man doesn’t speak a word of English, but with gestures he shows me where he lives. This means he goes out of his way to drop me off in the town center. Montenegrin hospitality. I thank him warmly when I get out. My hotel is right in the shopping street of Kolasin. A simple, not too large, but perfectly fine room. While I’m enjoying a beer in the lobby, the hotel phone rings. It turns out to be for me. Vlado is on the line. He tells me that my luggage still hasn’t arrived at Podgorica Airport today. He says that after five days Montenegro Airlines becomes responsible for the search. Vlado hopes this will speed things up. I’m not so convinced. Strange—my luggage has to be somewhere, right? In Kolasin’s shopping street I buy a sweater, socks, and extra underwear. That should keep me going for a few more days. In the evening I stroll through the town. It’s clearly a ski resort, with many terraces and shops focused on winter sports. I walk along the central square and the Main Street. At Upper Town Square I order Kacamak, a local specialty with cheese, cream, and potatoes. It tastes fine, though rather bland and very heavy.