Montenegro > Hiking through Durmitor National Park

I don’t have to think long about what to wear today. I put on the same clothes as yesterday. I don’t have anything else with me. Without my hiking boots and also without rain gear, I set off. Gašo, the owner of the campsite, drives me to the starting point.

Montenegro - The hiking route steadily climbs upward

Paco, a local boy, is my guide today. He leads me through Durmitor National Park. Durmitor is a unique natural area with mountain peaks, deep gorges, and vast meadows. The park is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Before we start walking, Gašo stops at a deep gorge. He explains that it is 49 meters deep. Paco translates this for me into English. He also explains that the deep valley was once formed by a glacier. I admire the high, steep rock walls on both sides. It’s astonishing how vertical the cliff rises upward. When Gašo can no longer drive his car any further, the hike begins. Paco walks in front, and I follow. The route follows the stream and gradually ascends. I walk alternately across meadows and through forests, but each time the valley is surrounded by steep rocky peaks.

Montenegro - The rocks around Bobotov Kuk the highest peak in the park

This landscape is characteristic of the park. At times, the route climbs steeply. The ground is sometimes wet, making the path slippery. I really miss my hiking boots here. Paco apologizes for the rainfall of the past few days. This is unusual for this time of year. The route is marked with red-and-white dots painted on the rocks along the path, making it easy to follow. As I climb higher, the vegetation decreases. The valley becomes more open. Still, I see high mountain peaks around me. Paco points out the Bobotov Kuk mountain—the highest peak in Durmitor National Park at 2,522 meters. The view is magnificent. In the distance, I spot some simple houses. They turn out to belong to shepherds—the first sign of life since I set out this morning. Paco takes me to a hut belonging to his aunt. She invites me into her yard. Immediately I am offered homemade rakija. I take a few sips, but it is far too strong. It feels like drinking pure alcohol. I apologize for not finishing it. Passing the sheep herd, I walk the last stretch toward Dobri Do. In the distance, I already see the road. Just before I reach it, I receive a text message from Vlado: my travel bag has not yet arrived today.

Montenegro - A goatherd offers us homemade alcohol

A disappointment. At the endpoint, Gašo is waiting for me again. Together we drive to Žabljak, where Paco gets out. Before I say goodbye to him, he helps me buy a few T-shirts and underwear in a small shop. I also pick up some items at the supermarket. It’s still a bit of a struggle like this. Then I thank Paco, and Gašo drives me back to the campsite near Šavnik. The weather has remained beautiful all day, and I haven’t missed my rain gear at all. I sit down on the terrace and order a beer. Enjoying my drink, I let the beauty of Durmitor National Park pass before my eyes. In the late afternoon, I return to my cabin. As soon as I lie down on my bed, I quickly fall asleep. Clearly, I need a nap. Before dinner, I take a shower and put on my new T-shirt. Instead of a menu like yesterday, the waiter simply tells me today I can choose between meat or fish. This results in a large platter of limp fries with various kinds of meat on top—a sort of mixed grill. It tastes just fine after a beautiful day of hiking.