
Home > Montenegro > Hospitable Montenegro > Travelogue day 1
August 111 2014 (11 days)
Just before 9:30 in the morning, flight KL1597 lands at Rome Airport. So far the journey has gone smoothly. Yesterday evening, I checked in online for the flight to Rome. However, I wasn’t able to check in for the connecting flight to Montenegro. Nor was it possible at Schiphol. I was told I would have to try in Rome. Since my layover here is only one hour, I immediately look for a transfer desk. At the counter, the lady tells me that she cannot check me in either and that I should go to the transfer desk at Gate D1. That’s a 10-minute walk. I follow the signs toward the D pier. The transfer counter there is empty.
A lady at the adjacent EasyJet counter expects someone will show up within the hour. When I tell her that my flight will already be gone by then, she doesn’t know what else to say and refers me to the airport information desk.As I walk over, I see on the boards that my flight is not leaving from the D pier but from the H pier. To get there I must first go through passport control. There it is indicated that further on there is another transfer counter and that I could also check in at the gate if needed. That’s a relief. When I reach the transfer counter at the H pier, I find out that they only handle Alitalia flights. I am redirected to Gate H6. Twenty-five minutes before departure, I finally arrive at the gate, where I can at last check in. Quite a relief. Shortly afterward, a bus takes me to the plane. Nobody from Montenegro Airlines seems to be in much of a hurry, so I’m not surprised when the flight departs with a delay. I pass the time watching the baggage handling outside. It looks very disorganized. I just hope my luggage made the transfer. At least it was labeled all the way through to Podgorica.Around eleven o’clock, with about a half-hour delay, we take off again—this time bound for Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. A flight of less than an hour. Soon I see the mainland of Montenegro appearing beneath me. At the airport, it doesn’t look like any more flights are expected. I walk calmly into the arrivals hall. A little tractor pulls the baggage carts to the conveyor belt. I wait patiently. When the belt stops, it’s clear all bags have been unloaded. That means mine wasn’t on board. Sigh! What now? At the baggage claim desk I report my missing duffel bag.
My hope for a quick solution evaporates when I am told the next flight only arrives tomorrow morning. With a form in my hand, but no luggage, I leave the arrivals hall. Because of all the delays, the other travelers are already gone. I just hope my contact from 3E-Travel is still waiting. Luckily, someone immediately comes walking toward me. “Ronald?” he asks. He introduces himself as Vlado and welcomes me. He assures me right away that he will take care of the luggage. At the car I also meet Anna, a colleague of Vlado. Together we drive toward Durmitor National Park. The holiday has begun. Vlado talks enthusiastically along the way about Montenegro, its people, and the capital. He immediately gives the impression that everything is well under control.After two hours we arrive at the Ostrog Monastery. This 12th-century Serbian Orthodox monastery is built directly into the cliffside. Before visiting, I order a sandwich at a terrace. I have barely eaten today. Then I visit the Holy Martyr Stanko Church at the Lower Monastery. The ceilings are decorated with beautiful frescoes. From there I follow the pilgrim path about two kilometers uphill. Halfway along, I visit the Church of St. Stanko the Martyr. The climb is tougher than expected; I feel the long travel day catching up with me. I practice the word “zdravo” (hello) with the walkers I pass. At the top, my effort is rewarded: the Upper Monastery is built spectacularly into the cliff face. Inside a cave lie the relics of Saint Basil of Ostrog. I join the line of waiting pilgrims to visit the shrine. It’s moving to see the devotion around me—people kiss the mosaics and touch the cross on the saint’s coffin. I observe the scene respectfully. Then I climb the tower to the higher cave, where I again see believers praying. The Ostrog Monastery is a remarkable place.Back at the car, we continue toward the first overnight stay. In Niksic I stop at a supermarket for a toothbrush, razor, water, and some cookies for tomorrow. Hopefully my luggage will arrive tomorrow. From Niksic it’s not far to Savnik. Just outside Savnik, I will spend the night in the Nevidio Canyon, in charming little triangular cabins. Over a beer, Vlado and I review the program for the coming days. In the evening the air cools down quickly, so I decide to eat indoors. After dinner, I head to bed right away. I’m very tired from this long travel day.