Morocco > The descent to Amtoudi

Morocco - A walk in the Palm Valley

After a good breakfast at the hotel, a portion of the travel group heads into the mountains. We are going for a walk in a different part of the Ammeln Valley. The other travelers sleep in or visit Tafraoute for the weekly market. After lunch, we meet again at the hotel in Tafraoute. In the Landrovers, we drive once more past the immense rock formations in the area where we hiked yesterday. Just before the colored rocks, we turn left, climbing the mountains through many hairpin bends. On the other side, we descend just as spectacularly into the mountain gorge. After about an hour of driving, we get out to continue the path on foot. The gorge is flanked by steep mountain ranges on both sides. After a few minutes, the asphalt road ends and the path turns into stone and gravel, which makes the walk even more beautiful. The villages we pass through are in a water-rich oasis area. We see various palm groves and encounter the local daily life along the way. At a small terrace—the only one along the route—under the palms, we order fresh orange juice. This is also where we will later have lunch/picnic. Normally, this would have happened further along, but due to roadworks, the vehicles can no longer pick us up. We walk for another half hour. In the villages, we occasionally play football with the local youth. When we reach the charred palm trees, we turn back. The palms were hit by a forest fire two years ago. It is suspected that the fire was started to drive away locusts but got out of control. The terrace is a perfect spot for the picnic. Alongside delicious sandwiches with fish, cheese, tomato, and cucumber, we also get a wonderful coffee. After another hour of driving, we are back at the hotel in Tafraoute, where the other travelers are relaxing by the pool in the sun.

Morocco - The pool at our hotel in Tafraoute

In the afternoon, we leave Tafraoute and drive toward Amtoudi. It is not a very long distance, but most of the route goes over unpaved mountain passes. The first part is still on asphalt roads, but after about 25 kilometers, we leave the paved road. We continue on the so-called piste (unpaved road). The road is bumpy, and the drivers have to work hard to avoid the large potholes. The final stretch to Amtoudi consists of a beautiful descent into the gorge with many bends, potholes, and rocks. Sometimes the path disappears, and we have to drive over the cobbles in the riverbed. Frequently, we cross the dry riverbed to continue left or right. Just before Amtoudi, the last two vehicles disappear from sight. After waiting in vain for a while, we turn back to investigate. Perhaps they have a flat tire or took a wrong turn. After driving a considerable distance back (they likely haven’t been behind us for some time), we see them approaching in the distance. The rear Land Cruiser has a flat precisely in the village. Under the watchful eyes of the local children, the two drivers change the tire. Leo stands behind the children and provides much hilarity with his horse-neigh imitation. Lashan, the driver of the second vehicle, looks relieved as he approaches us. This relief is short-lived, as Mohammed, our lead driver, is angry and makes it clear. In harsh words, he scolds Lashan, who looks startled. We can’t quite understand why he is so angry. Mohammed can only be upset because he failed to keep an eye on the vehicles behind him. With considerable speed, Mohammed drives away in the lead vehicle. Within a few bends, we lose sight of the two other cars again. Through this incident, Lashan learns the Dutch words for “angry” and “happy.” Fortunately, Amtoudi is near. A few minutes later, we drive onto the grounds of our accommodation.

Morocco - On these roads a 4x4 is really necessary

The inn consists of simple rooms with shared bathrooms, usually with cold water. The inn lies at the foot of the Agadir, an old fortress atop a rocky outcrop. Due to the delay along the way, it is too late to walk to the top before sunset. We decide to walk halfway up the mountain. Keeping a brisk pace, we reach the top before sunset, though some have lagged behind. Along the way, several children from the village accompany us uphill. After some negotiation with the caretaker, we are able to quickly and cheaply take a look inside the Agadir itself. The Agadir used to house an entire village, surrounded by a sturdy defensive wall. The tour is brief to ensure we see the sunset on time. After this Kodak moment, we walk down more slowly. Along the way, we pick up stragglers, and the number of children accompanying us grows. At the boundary of the hotel, they all suddenly stop. Clearly, they are not allowed to enter, although there is no visible boundary. Before dinner, we have a drink in the common area. Dinner is simple (tagine, of course) but tasty. After the meal, Obbo gives an explanation about tomorrow’s hike.