Morocco > Hiking in the Ammeln Valley

Morocco - The spice vendor quickly swapped saffron for curry

The view from the hotel is indeed beautiful. The wind has died down, making it pleasant to sit on the terrace. Nevertheless, it is still far too cold for the swimming pool, which we pass on the way to the breakfast room. At half past eight, the luggage is loaded onto the Landrovers again, and we drive back to Tafraoute. The pace is much calmer now. With daylight, the view is also more striking. Especially the rock formations near Tafraoute are remarkable. Sometimes it seems as if the colossal rocks could tumble down at any moment. In Tafraoute, we pick up the local guide and drive a short distance to the Ammeln Valley. The valley contains 44 villages scattered across the landscape. Many of these villages are partly abandoned, as the residents have sought their fortune in Europe. We get out near Aït Taleb. The guide leads us on a walking route along the steep Ibel Lekst mountain range. The villages cling to the mountainside. Along narrow paths, through trees and shrubs, and alongside man-made water channels, we get to know real Berber life. We climb and descend following the path. It is truly a fantastic walk, both in terms of nature and Moroccan culture. Via the villages of Anameur, Tamaloukt, and Oumesnat, we return to the main road. After three hours of walking, much later than planned, we arrive back.

Morocco - The hike through the Ammeln Valley

The drivers didn’t mind waiting, and we enjoyed the extra-long walk. We quickly drive back to Tafraoute for a typical Moroccan lunch with soup, bread, and salad. In the small restaurant, we sit on benches along the wall. The food tastes excellent, but a second round of soup was not expected. That’s unfortunate! We make do with some extra bread to ensure we have enough to eat. By two o’clock, we arrive at the hotel on the hill in Tafraoute. From this castle-like hotel, we have a nice view over the town. The hotel looks luxurious from the outside, but the interior is less impressive. Inside, there are large, cavernous rooms and high, wide hallways. The hotel has a somewhat cold atmosphere, particularly the enormous and uninviting dining hall. Despite the threatening weather, there is enough interest in the walk to the colored rocks. The rocks have been painted by the Belgian artist Jean Veran. Others go to the hammam, the bathhouse with massage, in town. For the walk, we meet in the center of town. Today the town is much livelier and busier than yesterday.

Morocco - The enormous colored rocks near Tafraoute

Tomorrow is the weekly market, and many vendors have already arrived early. The spice seller smiles kindly at us, as if nothing is amiss. We let it be. At half past three, we drive toward the “Roches Bleues,” the colored rocks. The rocks are more than twenty meters high. Opinions about them are divided. Some see it as art, others as pure pollution of nature. Along the walking path, we pass colossal boulders on our way back to Tafraoute. It is cloudy, and rain could fall at any moment. Yet, just before Tafraoute, we catch a glimpse of the setting sun. A beautiful orange glow shines over the rock formations, with dark clouds in the background. During dinner at the hotel, we celebrate Marius’s birthday with a few bottles of wine. Afterwards, everyone goes to bed on time after this strenuous day.