Morocco > Swimming in Guelmim

At half past seven the alarm goes off. The luggage is packed again for the next stage to Sidi Ifni. Hopefully, there will be hot water from the shower again. After breakfast the luggage is loaded onto the vehicles and we leave Amtoudi.

Morocco - After lots of rice now we eat chicken with fries

Today we leave the Anti-Atlas mountains behind and drive to the Atlantic coast. In Bou Izakarn we make a short coffee stop and also have the chance to wander through the little streets. We stroll around the souq, past the small shops, and eventually settle down at a terrace for coffee and tea. After half an hour we continue on towards Goulimine. Just before entering Goulimine we leave the main road to visit a sulfur bath in Aibanou. Here we can swim, though men and women are strictly separated. This means the two bathhouses are 200 meters apart and divided by the road. The water is pleasantly warm and, luckily, the sulfur smell is not too strong. In fact, it is just an ordinary swimming pool. Once in the water, we immediately attract the attention of the Moroccan youth. They tell us—through a somewhat tricky conversation due to the language barrier—about which Moroccan players are at Ajax and how they are related to them (cousins, distant cousins, etc.

Morocco - The village of Goulimine

). I take a photo of the pool. When I show the digital picture, a group photo must also be taken with everyone in it. With gestures they ask if I can send the photo. On a small scrap of paper, an address is written down in French. The handwriting is rather messy, but hopefully the photos will arrive. Around noon we leave the bath and drive to the center of Goulimine (Guelmim). Goulimine is a fairly large town. On the central square we order chicken with fries. To spread the business, we split up among several eateries. Apparently the restaurants don’t want to be outdone by each other, because for a relatively small amount the whole table is soon filled with salad, olives, and chicken livers, along with plenty of fries and chicken (and all for just two euros per person). After lunch we continue towards Sidi Ifni. Along the way we make one more stop. We visit the cooperative “Tafyoucht” of about 40 women. They produce products from the oil of the argan nut. The raw nuts are dried, then a machine removes the coarse shell. After that, the nuts are cracked by hand with a stone so the oil can be pressed. A great many nuts are needed for just one liter of oil, and due to the labor-intensive process the oil is quite exclusive. In the shop we buy a few products, thus supporting the cooperative.

Morocco - The sea mist lifting from the sea in Sidi Ifni

I dare to try a jar of peanut butter. I am invited to try cracking a nut myself. It is not so easy to split the nut. With considerable force (and a bit of care for my fingers) the nut finally breaks open. In Sidi Ifni the hotel is located on a rocky headland with a fine view over the town and the Atlantic Ocean. Sidi Ifni was for a long time a Spanish enclave. Spanish influences are still very much present in the center. From the center we walk down to the beach and stroll past the slightly touristy souvenir shops. From the sea a low mist rolls in, which makes for beautiful photos. On the beach we stay until the sun touches the horizon. A beautiful orange glow shines over the town. As we walk back, we pass a fisherman on the beach. The image of him against the setting sun is a true Kodak moment. In exchange for sending him the photo, I take his picture. Then he offers me his fishing rod so I can be photographed as a sea fisherman at sunset. A quick snapshot is taken of me with the rod against the glowing horizon. In the evening we dine at a cozy little restaurant in town—actually the only restaurant in Sidi Ifni. The fish is delicious and the owner very enthusiastic. He ends the evening with a cheerful drum performance especially for us.