Cape Verde > The Market of Assomada

I wake up to beautiful weather and a stunning clear view of the mountains and the valley. The German group also arrived late last night. They are staying just below me in their rooms. I sometimes heard chairs scraping across the tiles. That sound carries through. Still, I slept well. Today, corona rules suddenly apply in the breakfast room. We are no longer allowed to help ourselves but must point out what we want. A barrier tape is also stretched so we can’t get too close to the buffet. I suspect this is because a group is visiting. For them, this is probably a requirement. Yesterday, none of this mattered. At nine o’clock, we check out. We thank the owner and staff for their hospitality. The luggage is loaded, and we descend the mountain again. We drive back a large part of yesterday’s route. However, we turn off at Assomada. The Serra Malagueta Nature Park lies a bit further on. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, a regional market is held in Assomada. Many people from surrounding villages come to this market to do their shopping. As soon as I enter the market hall, I see numerous vegetable and fruit stalls. The colorful fruit is neatly stacked on cloths on the floor. In one corner, meat is sold. Some pig and goat heads still lie on the ground. The meat itself hangs behind the counter. In another corner, fish is displayed. That is yesterday’s fish, Alberto warns. Today’s catch still has to be brought in from the fishing village of Tarrafan. He points to a group of women waiting outside with large basins.

Cape Verde - Everything is sold at the colorful market

As soon as the fish arrives, they start selling. On the first floor, mainly clothing is sold. It is not busy here. From the railing, I have a view of the busy fruit and vegetable trade below. Three little boys come walking. One boy clings tightly to me. Together we take a photo. Alberto suggests walking from the market through the town of Assomada to the big tree. That sounds nice. Originally, the van would take us a little way to the edge of town. We leave the market and pass shops. We cross the square by the town hall. At the edge of town is a deep valley. Here the walk to the big tree begins. A steep, zigzagging path descends into the valley. Along the way, we pass a school and a rum distillery.

Cape Verde - Two boys see themselves in the photo

An old man explains the rum-making process in Portuguese and with many words. We decline the offer to taste the grogue, the homemade rum. At the bottom of the valley stands the largest tree on Santiago Island and perhaps of all Cape Verde. The kapok tree is more than five hundred years old. The tree has an impressive trunk. On the way back, the driver meets us with the van. We quickly get in. Within half an hour, we continue to Tarrafan. We pass the entrance to the national park. Today the forest is shrouded in clouds. How lucky we were to walk here yesterday. Tarrafan is free of clouds. The fishing village on the sea is basking in the sun. Fishermen are just returning with their catch. They drag small wooden fishing boats onto the beach. Sorting and selling fish starts immediately. Various basins are filled with fish.

Cape Verde - Colorful boats and clear seawater

Women immediately start cleaning the fish, while fishermen tidy their nets. Before one boat is empty, the next is already docking. Not all boats have caught the same amount. In a simple beachside restaurant, we order a fish meal. They look a bit surprised that tourists come here to eat. Mostly locals eat here. Everyone quickly shifts a little. We get different types of fish: dorado and mackerel. It tastes great. The other guests mainly sit and watch how we enjoy the meal. Payment is more complicated. There is no change. In the end, we get three extra colas and they keep the change. Everyone’s happy. After lunch, we drive back to Praia via the north side of the island. We follow the coast. We pass the place where we ended our walk yesterday. Around four o’clock, two hours later, we arrive back in Praia. It feels a bit like coming home. Before we go to the airport tonight, we have a day room in a hotel in the center. Here we say goodbye to Alberto. He is a good guide, eager to tell many things, but also very busy and worried. For three days, it is just right. Longer would get boring. From the hotel, we walk to the plateau. We were here Sunday as well. Then, because of the day of rest, the streets were deserted. Now it is much livelier. Shops are open, terraces are full, and the market hall is still open. Although most stalls are just closing. They simply pull a cloth over the products. On the shopping street, we order drinks on a terrace. Meanwhile, we watch the people passing by. For dinner, we go to Quebra Canela beach. A half-hour walk from the center. At one of the beach bars, we take a seat on the terrace. The last swimmers are still in the sea. The sun is almost down. On the terrace, we enjoy our last dinner in Cape Verde, while the lights of Praia turn on. In the hotel room, I take a shower and change. I prepare for the return trip to the Netherlands. At half past ten, we are picked up at the hotel again. At check-out, we must pay tourist tax.

Cape Verde - Eating at the beach at Praia

We had not accounted for this. We are not staying here overnight, right? Fortunately, we still have just enough Cape Verdean money left for the tax and the tip for the driver. Quickly, we load the luggage and drive to the airport. Here we say goodbye to our driver. He has driven us for three days but hardly said anything. Because he does not speak English, he is somewhat shy. He is happy with our tip. We join the queue for check-in. Everyone must be able to show an entry declaration for Portugal. Many travelers do not have this. This slows down check-in. We do have the declaration, but gave a random seat number. Hopefully, this is not a problem. When it’s our turn, we show our ticket, passport, Portugal declaration, and corona vaccination. Everything is okay. Also, our declaration. We proceed to the usual procedures for carry-on baggage and customs. Fortunately, they do stamp my passport when leaving the country. The stamp is not much, though. A pity. At the bar, we spend the last cents on bottles of water.