Cape Verde > Descending through the Misty Forest

Maarten is suffering more from his fall yesterday on the slopes of the volcano than we initially thought. Perhaps precisely because of that fall, the descent also took a lot of effort—especially on his knees. The prospect of having to descend steeply again today worries him. During breakfast, we discuss alternatives with Eurico. He says today will be an intensive day with a lot of descending. He will check for a plan B. After some phone calls, he comes up with the proposal that we split up. I will descend with Eurico to Pai Antonio. Maarten and Monique will walk part of the way with us in the valley, where the route is still relatively flat. Then they will go by car, which will take our luggage to São Filipe.

Cape Verde - Our accommodation in the village at the foot of the volcano

From there, they will take a taxi with Mayuka to Pai Antonio as well. This way they will also see the northern coast of Fogo. This seems like a good alternative. At quarter to nine, we say goodbye to Cecilio and Heleni. We thank them for their wonderful hospitality. We walk through the valley. Here the devastating power of the lava is clearly visible. Only roofs still stick out above the lava everywhere. Eurico points out his childhood home. The house has remained fairly intact. Further on lives a sister, and across the way a brother. He has twenty brothers and sisters by two mothers, so there’s a good chance to meet family. At the end of the village, Maarten and Monique turn back. I’ll see them again this afternoon. Together with Eurico, I continue walking. We leave the valley and enter a more wooded area. I have to buy a ticket for the park. "She is my sister," Eurico says, pointing to the woman selling tickets. Coincidentally, a car with one of his brothers passes by. By now I have already met a large part of his family. The small village in the valley is tight-knit and Eurico knows everyone. He chats with many people. In the national park, we turn off the road and descend via a narrow zigzag path. It’s surprising how green it is here. I am walking in a forest, while just a kilometer back in the valley it was too dry and barren. "There is always mist here because of the clouds," Eurico explains. The Misty Forest. This keeps it always moist. The low-hanging mist gives the forest a mysterious vibe. Eurico points to the oranges on the trees, limes, bananas, and coffee plants. It is coffee harvest time. Along the path, the beans are being picked. In large fifty-kilogram sacks, the beans are carried downhill. I step aside on the path when someone passes with such a heavy load. Donkeys also pass by, loaded with two heavy sacks of coffee each. Along the way, I chat freely with Eurico. For example, I am curious how he charges his phone when he has no electricity at home. "I use a power bank," he says, "which I’m allowed to charge at Cecilio’s." He wants to know how cows are milked at home with us. He is surprised that I only buy milk at the supermarket. Next year he wants to go with his wife and his almost two-year-old daughter Bianca to the island of Santo Antão. Two of his brothers also live there. He would have to fly from Praia though—the boat takes too long. Eurico is 29 years old and determined to make something of himself in this difficult environment.

Cape Verde - Photo with the guide

He is not afraid of new eruptions. "If they come, they come," he says casually. Along the way, I share stroopwafels and sultanas. He shares his sandwich. I also share some Liga biscuits with a few coffee carriers along the way. After four hours of walking, we reach the road in Pai Antonio. Loud music blasts from the speakers of a small bar. Here I also meet Maarten and Monique again. The carriers load the coffee sacks into pickup trucks. Together with Eurico and Mayuka, the taxi driver, we have a drink in the small bar “Cantinho do Cutelo Fora.” Afterwards, we drive to São Filipe. For this, we first descend to the coastal town of Mosteiros. "Do you want some coffee?" asks Eurico. The traditional coffee of Fogo. We stop at Restaurante Christine, right opposite the town hall of Mosteiros. Up a staircase, we reach a terrace. Eurico orders coffee for us. When we want to continue driving, the owner invites us to come see the roof. Large quantities of coffee beans are drying on the restaurant roof. He shows that the beans aren’t dry enough after three weeks. The green and red beans from two days ago certainly aren’t. From Mosteiros, we follow the coastal road. The road goes up and down through the mountains, giving us frequent views of the rugged coastline. We stop briefly for a photo. Halfway, the cobblestone road changes to asphalt. We pass numerous villages, often connected to each other. The coastal road is the best connection route across the island. Around three o’clock, we arrive in São Filipe. The hotel is housed in an old colonial building. We say goodbye to Mayuka and Eurico in front of the door. The driver who brought the luggage this morning is waiting to take Eurico back to Chã das Caldeiras. The hotel lies on the edge of the old historic center. Many houses in the Sobrado style still stand here—buildings from the Portuguese colonial period. Some houses are beautifully restored and painted in bright cheerful colors. Other buildings are dilapidated and seem beyond saving from demolition.

Cape Verde - The church building in Sao Filipe

Through the market square and the blue-painted church, we reach the sea. The ocean lies about twenty meters below. São Filipe is on a rocky plateau. From a terrace, we have a nice view of the ocean and the city. In the afternoon, we sit on the small balcony above the entrance of our hotel. The receptionist had said, in French, that from this balcony we would have a nice view of the sunset. The view of the city is beautiful, but the sun quickly disappears behind the clouds on the horizon. In the hotel, we also meet again the Frenchman with the long beard. He was at the hotel with Cecilio and Heleni the past days. From the adjacent terrace, a German couple waves. They were also in the breakfast room of Casa Lavra this morning. Cape Verde isn’t that big. In the evening, we go to club Tropical—a restaurant where, according to the travel agency, you can especially eat good lobster. Unfortunately, there is no lobster today. It’s not the season, the waitress explains. When we joke that we came all the way from the Netherlands to eat lobster here, the waitress comes back a little later to say there is still a small piece of lobster in the freezer. However, she already advises against ordering it, but if we really want… We thank her for the effort and order other fish dishes. The Frenchman and the German couple are also in the courtyard. They probably travel with the same local travel agent.