Cape Verde > The Plateau of Praia

I slept very well last night. I was awake a little before nine o’clock. Breakfast is served on the terrace by the pool. It takes some getting used to that we have to wear a face mask inside. We have just gotten rid of these rules in the Netherlands. It is what it is. The weather is lovely, but there is a strong wind. The wind also brings some cooling on the other side.

Cape Verde - The luxury Pestana Tropico Hotel in Praia

Today we have time to visit the capital, Praia. From tomorrow, guided walks are planned. The Pestana Tropico hotel is located on the bay. There are more luxury hotels here. From the hotel, we walk to the lighthouse. The Dona Maria Pia lighthouse stands on a small peninsula. The caretaker, George, enthusiastically tells us about the lighthouse in Spanish. The 21-meter high lighthouse was built in 1881 to guide ships on their journey from Portugal to Brazil. The tower is named after the then Portuguese queen. George offers that we can visit the tower for a small fee. Proudly, he shows us the guestbook. “Look, more travelers from the Netherlands!” The wooden spiral staircase leads to a platform.

Cape Verde - In the photo with the lighthouse keeper George

“Sometimes weddings are held here,” the caretaker continues. Eventually, we reach the top of the tower. We carefully maneuver ourselves into the small dome. “Be careful not to touch the lamp,” George warns. Although the lamp is off, it rotates inside the small dome. It’s funny to stand inside the light dome of a lighthouse. We thank George for his explanation. We follow the bay to the plateau. Cape Verde was uninhabited until the Portuguese discovered the archipelago off the coast of Senegal in 1460. For them, it was an excellent base for the slave trade. Initially, the Portuguese founded a settlement at Cidada Vihla (the old city). In the 18th century, the capital was moved to Praia after attacks on the old city. They established a walled fortress on a rocky plateau, 37 meters above sea level. This still forms the core of the historic center of the Cape Verdean capital. To reach the plateau, we climb the colorfully painted stairs. Immediately, we stand by the Palácio da Presidência da República. A soldier standing guard at the gate gestures that we may take photos.

Cape Verde - The statue of Diogo Gomes one of the discoverers of Cape Verde

Since 1894, this was the governor’s residence. Since Cape Verde’s independence in 1975, it has served as the presidential palace. Behind the palace stands a statue of Diogo Gomes, one of the discoverers of the island Santiago in 1460. From his pedestal, he looks out over the bay. It is Sunday today, and the historic city is quiet. Almost all shops are closed. Only a few terraces are open. At the Nossa Senhora da Graca church, a large crowd is streaming out. The service has just ended. Everyone is dressed in their Sunday best. Along the promenade, we walk to the other side of the plateau. At the Igreja do Nazareno cathedral, the service is still ongoing. From the doorway, we look inside briefly. Everyone is singing enthusiastically. From the edge of the former fortress, we see a local market below. We decide to get a drink first. This gives me the opportunity to practice some Portuguese words. The waitress laughs and corrects my pronunciation. Her name is Sandra, she tells me in Portuguese. As quiet as it is in the shopping street on the plateau, the market is busy. Stalls everywhere, mostly with clothing. It seems mainly secondhand clothes piled in large stacks. Along the edges of the market are food stalls. Each stall has a few tables. Above them are cloths stretched out for shade. We decide to sit at one of the local stalls. It turns out each stall offers just one dish: rice with a kind of peanut sauce. But we can choose between chicken or fish. Many Cape Verdeans come here for a quick bite too. It’s nice to experience this. Back on the plateau, we conclude that we have seen all the sights of Praia.

Cape Verde - With a drink a view over QuebraCanela Beach

We decide to walk to Quebra-Canela Beach. This beach lies just past our hotel. Although Praia itself means “beach” in Portuguese, the city doesn’t have many beaches. Quebra-Canela is probably the best located beach. Many people use this Sunday to sunbathe on the beach and swim in the bay. We take a seat on the terrace of one of the beach clubs. From the terrace, we have a view of Quebra-Canela beach. Around four o’clock, we return to our hotel. Many guests are lying on the sunbeds around the pool. We take it easy for a while. I retreat to the room for a bit. I notice the short night is taking its toll. Early in the evening, we return to Quebra-Canela Beach. The Kebra Cabana beach club is perhaps the best-known beach bar. Many locals come here too. We are warmly welcomed. We take a table with a view of the bay. Children still play on the beach while the sun slowly sets. The lasagna meal takes a bit longer, the waiter apologizes when we order. “I can serve all dishes at the same time, but then it will just take a bit longer.” That sounds like a good plan. Meanwhile, he brings the drinks first. We toast to a wonderful first day in Cape Verde.