Ethiopia > Visit to Grace Village orphanage

It was chilly in the room last night. Because of the high altitude of Debark, the temperature in the hotel room dropped to just above ten degrees. Luckily, the blanket kept me warm enough. Today I am traveling to Axum, the northernmost destination of this trip. The road to Axum winds through the mountains and is said to be in poor condition.

Ethiopia - Laundry being done in the brook

By half past six I am already having breakfast. Half an hour later I leave Debark. At this time of the morning, it is still quite cool outside. Children wrap themselves in blankets, which they use instead of coats. Soon after leaving Debark, the bus climbs into the mountains along a narrow, rocky road. I look out over deep valleys—such a beautiful sight. For Jonas, it is important to keep his eyes firmly on the road. Fortunately, we encounter few oncoming vehicles. The road seems glued to the steep rock face. Through sharp hairpin bends, we climb higher and higher. I wonder how they could ever widen and pave this road. Perhaps that is why they have not yet started. A little further on, work is in progress: large sections of rock are being cut away to widen the road. Because of the works, the passage is rough and muddy, with stones scattered everywhere.

Ethiopia - The Ethiopian street scene along the way

Jonas steers the bus as best he can, though sometimes the underside scrapes against the rocks. At one point we get stuck in deep ruts. Jonas removes some stones, and with the help of a driver behind us giving directions, he manages to guide the bus through. Occasionally we have to stop for the construction work, waiting until a bulldozer evens out the road again. For lunch, I have brought a packed meal. Near a river I find a nice picnic spot. By now it is clear I have descended quite a bit—it has grown warm. I sit in the shade of a tree to eat. What I don’t finish, I give to some children along the roadside. Around three o’clock, I finally leave the mountains. The whole day has been one endless sequence of hairpin bends up and down over a bumpy road. The jolts are especially noticeable in the back of the bus, despite Jonas’ careful driving. Every now and then, the people in the rear seats bounce up.

Ethiopia - The school class at the Grace Village orphanage near Shire

Suddenly I hear a metallic clatter. Something has fallen off the bus. People on the street run toward it. Jonas stops—it turns out the spare wheel has come loose. The holder beneath the bus has broken. Jonas secures the wheel on the roof. Fortunately, not long after we reach the asphalt road to Axum. Just before Shire, I visit an orphanage called Grace Village, run by a Dutch woman, Karin. She gives me a tour of the spacious grounds. A little girl immediately runs up and grabs my hand. I visit the school and the housing units. Karin explains that she mainly tries to create a homelike atmosphere. Each block of ten children has its own living room and kitchen, supervised by a house mother. A well-organized initiative. Finally, around six o’clock, I arrive in Axum. Dusk is already falling outside. My hotel is in the center of town, which looks cozy from the bus. After a refreshing shower to wash off the day’s dust, I walk into Axum. At a restaurant on the main street, I order a steak with egg—a great choice.