Turkey > The limestone terraces of Pamukkale

This morning it is busier at breakfast. Instead of one plate per person, we can now choose at the buffet. After breakfast, we check out. We do return the key at this hotel. We drive to the nearby village of Sirince. The navigation leads us through the outskirts of Selçuk. Then we quickly gain altitude. The village of Sirince still consists of traditional Ottoman houses along narrow cobblestone streets. The village is also known for its wine production, which makes it a tourist attraction. When we arrive in Sirince, many vendors are setting up their stalls. The tourist flow has yet to begin. We walk between the stalls and houses. We follow signs to the church. We miss the entrance and walk too far. Quickly, everyone points out where we should have entered. The church is no longer in use. An artist is showing her paintings inside. We are more interested in the old St. John the Baptist church. At the end of the walk, we want to try the wine from Sirince.

Turkey - The historic Ottoman houses of Sirince

We taste the sweet red wine from a small cup. Although it’s not bad, it’s also no reason to buy a whole bottle. We set the navigation for the next destination: Pamukkale. It’s a drive of over two and a half hours. We mostly follow the same road we took the day before yesterday. As we enter Pamukkale, someone waves to us, asking if we want to buy a booklet about Pamukkale. Very cheap, they emphasize. When we say no, they point out that we can turn right to park, but also straight ahead. We go straight and park the car with a view of the limestone. From here, the white mountains already look impressive. Next to the parking lot, we order something to eat for lunch. It’s already half past two. The waiter points out the park entrance. He also points to people walking up a white rope. After lunch, we follow his directions. Right after the ticket office, we reach the limestone. The spectacular white terraces of Pamukkale are formed because carbon dioxide rises from the water of the hot spring, causing calcium carbonate to precipitate. This creates the unique limestone formation. I take off my shoes and continue barefoot. The stone texture sometimes hurts my feet. I’m also not used to walking barefoot. The warm spring water flows over the limestone. In pools along the path, the light blue water remains. A beautiful sight combined with the white limestone deposits. However, dark clouds are forming behind us. Pitch-black clouds. Thunder rumbles in the distance. Will we stay dry? We have few options halfway up the slope. We have no choice but to keep walking. We carefully step from stone to stone. The village of Pamukkale slowly shrinks behind us. Just as we arrive at the famous terraces of Pamukkale, the sun disappears behind the clouds.

Turkey - Minerals are deposited on the rocks

The wind suddenly picks up strongly. Hard gusts blow parasols off the terrace. People on the slope have to brace themselves as well. The streams of the natural hot spring are artificially led over the mountain. Through channels, they decide which parts of the slope get water. Today, the water flows along the path we walked. The other pools, including the famous limestone terraces, are dry because of this. We don’t have much time to pay attention to that. The trees blow dangerously around us. Sand blows through the air. The question is no longer if it will rain, but when. We quickly walk past the museum and go to Cleopatra’s Bath. At this natural hot spring, at least we can take shelter. Apparently, Cleopatra herself once swam in this bath. Now it’s mainly used by tourists. Because the thunderstorm is approaching, we decide not to swim. At the café, we order something to drink. Meanwhile, we wait out the shower with dozens of others. The shower does not come, and the sky clears. After a pause, we walk to the ancient theater of Hierapolis. Already in the second century AD, a city was built around the mineral baths. The theater accommodated 20,000 visitors.

Turkey - The famous water basins of Pamukkale

Just as we arrive at the theater, it starts raining after all. In the rain, we walk back to our previous shelter. Heavy drops fall. The temperature also drops. I’m cold. Other people are clearly dressed better for this. My raincoat is still in the car. We decide to split up. Marco walks back to Pamukkale via the South Gate. I go down via the limestone descent. I pick up Marco again by car. I take off my shoes and step onto the limestone again. Maybe because of the rain, I find it harder to walk barefoot over the limestone. I look for the smooth parts. I wrap my towel around my shoulders against the cold. My glasses fog up from the raindrops. A pity about the weather, but still good that I saw this beautiful natural phenomenon in sunlight. The descent is quiet. I feel a bit like one of the last skiers on the ski slope. Around six o’clock, I’m back down. The waiter from the restaurant waves at me. He’s wearing a thick sweater. By the car, I dry myself off and get my sweater from the luggage. Then I quickly drive to the south gate. I meet Marco halfway. He’s cold and wet too. Our hotel is located in the center of Pamukkale. The navigation leads us there. We park the car in front of the hotel. When we arrive at the entrance, the hotel looks closed. Did we book here? The door is open, but there is construction inside. “Can I help you?” comes a voice from inside. When we say we have a reservation for Hotel Ayapam, it turns out we are standing at the neighbor’s place. “Your hotel is next door,” the man points out. Luckily. We quickly check in. The hotel rooms are around the pool. We are also allowed to use the hammam. The hammam is still occupied.

Turkey - Dining with a view of the limestone terraces of Pamukkale

We decide to take a dip in the pool. At the edge of the pool, a young couple from Indonesia is busy with a drone. She tells me she studies in Moscow. When I make a remark about the war between Russia and Ukraine, she says Russia claims this area based on its past. I ask her if the Netherlands would have the same right to Indonesia, since that was once ours too? We decide to avoid the topic further. For the evening, we walk back to the boulevard along the limestone mountains. In one of the small restaurants, we order something to eat while night falls over the limestone rocks of Pamukkale. I notice the cold hasn’t done me any good. I don’t feel very well. After eating, I go back to the hotel. Sleep.