Tunisia > Underground in Matmara

I wake up underground. To my relief, warm water comes out of the tap when I shower. In the breakfast room, a simple breakfast buffet is ready. At half past eight, we load the luggage back into the bus. We drive a short distance from the hotel. In the mountains lie the Berber villages. Like our hotel from last night, the Berbers lived underground. As a result, many houses are hidden. During the heavy rain and flooding of 1969, some houses collapsed. The new houses are simply built above ground. The Berber village of Matmata lies at the edge of the Sahara Desert. I see the vast sand plain. I have never been this close to the Sahara before. The desert landscape in this region was also the setting for the Star Wars films. We stop at a viewpoint.

Tunisia - The beginning of the vast Sahara Desert

The landscape with sand dunes formed the planet Tatooine in the films. We visit a family who still lives in a traditional cave dwelling. From the roof, it’s easy to see how the house was dug out of the rocks. From the open courtyard, several rooms have been carved out. The family welcomes us with tea and fresh bread with honey. After the visit, we drive down the mountains toward the coast. In the town of Gabes, a slave market was once held. Nowadays, spices are sold at this location. Mohamed warns that we may buy all the spices except saffron. There is no saffron in Tunisia, he warns. In the shops, they sell dyed sea grass. We are free to wander through the streets on our own. I also walk through the craftsmen’s streets. I pass a blacksmith, a shoemaker, and a tailor’s workshop. Everyone is friendly. From the coastal town of Gabes, we follow the coast northwards. In Mahres, there is the restaurant for lunch.

Tunisia - People live underground in Matmara to escape the heat

Only it’s not exactly clear where the restaurant is. It should be nearby. When Mohamed calls, one of the waiters comes over and points the way. From the first floor, with a view of the sea, I enjoy my lunch. Around two o’clock, we set off for the last stage toward Sfax. Sfax is the country’s second-largest city with nearly two million inhabitants. We get off at the medina. The medina of Sfax is a lively market. There is bustling activity everywhere. First, we pass the fish market. Vendors like to be photographed. The fruit and vegetable market is right behind it. When I take a photo of a stall, I am offered a mandarin. We wander through the streets of the medina. Different goods are sold in each neighborhood. Shoes, clothes, or pots and pans. I take a photo of an older vendor and give him the mandarin I just received. He is happy with it. In the medina, most people respond enthusiastically. At a vendor with a kind of handcart, I buy something like a tompouce (a Dutch pastry). It tastes good. On the other side, by the historic gate, we leave the medina again. From here, it is a short walk to the hotel—a nice hotel in the center of Sfax.

Tunisia - The lively medina of Sfax Tunisia

With some fellow travelers, I return to the medina before it closes at five o’clock. It is wonderful to wander among the stalls and interact with the vendors. At five, most stalls are closed and cleared away. The shutters go down. At the hotel, we have a drink at the bar. During dinner, irritations arise within the group. Fatigue probably plays a role. I also get my share of criticism. A fairly innocent remark that the table is only set for ten people receives a resentful response. It’s not even the message but the tone that irritates me. A few minutes later, another traveler is next. Somewhat baffled, I continue eating. Perhaps it’s good for our group that the trip only has two days left. After dinner in the evening, I go to my room. Others go to the bar for a while longer. I’m not in the mood.