São Tomé and Príncipe > Hike to BomBom Beach

Breakfast is served under the covered courtyard. It is rather modest, consisting of a bread roll and a small omelette. There are not even enough bananas for everyone. Today we are hiking from Santo António to Bom Bom Beach. First, the three vehicles take us towards the airport, where we visit a cocoa plantation. Our local guide, Domingo, explains that no cocoa beans are currently drying, but he shows us a cocoa pod and points out several other tropical fruits growing on the trees. A short drive later, we begin our hike. We are told it is about one and a half kilometres to the first beach and then another five kilometres along the coast. Distances in São Tomé and Príncipe should be taken with a grain of salt—they are usually rough estimates. The first section turns out to be closer to three kilometres, although it is completely flat. The view of the beach is magnificent. The sun is shining, turning the sea a brilliant shade of blue. Along the shoreline, hidden among the trees, stand the ruins of the former Portuguese Capela da Ribeira Izé, a church dating back to the colonial era. Only the walls remain, with tree roots gradually taking over the old masonry. We cross the beach and continue through the forest. The trail rises and falls gently, its surface covered with exposed tree roots.

São Tomé and Príncipe - Trees have taken over the old Capela da Ribeira Ize

Despite this, it is not a particularly demanding walk. At around 11:30 a.m., we arrive at Bom Bom Beach, home to a luxury resort. Although the beach is public, we are welcome to sit on the resort terrace as long as we order something. I choose a sandwich. While waiting for my meal, I take a refreshing swim in the warm ocean before relaxing on the beach to dry off. My lunch arrives without much delay, but several of my fellow travellers are less fortunate. Even after an hour and a half, they are still waiting for their meals. Orders do not always seem to run smoothly here. The resort also owns a small private island connected to the mainland by a footbridge. It is unclear whether we are actually allowed to visit it. We had been told someone would accompany us, but no one appears. Eventually, we decide to explore on our own. Crossing the bridge, we discover a clearly marked walking trail through the forest that takes about thirty minutes to complete. It leads us to the island's highest point and to rocky cliffs overlooking the sea. It is a pleasant little walk before we return to Bom Bom Beach.

São Tomé and Príncipe - A beautiful beach on So Tome and Principe

At 4:00 p.m., we drive back to Santo António. That evening, several fellow travellers and I head into town for dinner. As mentioned before, the dining options are rather limited. We first try the Mira Rio Restaurant, located on the first floor with a nice view. When we ask for the menu, however, we are told there is no menu—and no food. A young man in the restaurant kindly offers to help. Almost all communication on São Tomé and Príncipe takes place in Portuguese, but he explains that they only have simple sandwiches available. That sounds perfectly fine to us. However, when we try to order five sandwiches with his help, we discover they have run out of bread. An omelette is offered instead. We get the impression that they are not particularly interested in serving us, so we decide to look elsewhere. The helpful young man points to another restaurant across the river. He tells us it was closed yesterday, but the photographs online looked inviting.

São Tomé and Príncipe - The bridge leading to the small island at BomBom Beach

We decide to give it a try. When we arrive, we find a very modest establishment with a small bar and a few simple tables. The owner assures us that we can eat there. At least they have chicken. We order four chicken dishes and one omelette, without really knowing what exactly we will receive or how much it will cost. A little later, we notice the owner's wife leaving with their young daughter to buy groceries for our meal. Meanwhile, a young couple with their baby joins us at our table. They are delighted that we have come to visit their country. The young man speaks remarkably good English, something we have rarely encountered on the island. When our meals finally arrive, each of us receives two chicken drumsticks with fried cassava. It is absolutely delicious. The owner watches us from behind the bar, clearly interested in whether we enjoy the food. After dinner, he asks whether we will be staying in town for a few more days. If so, he says, they can prepare food in advance. We explain that we have not yet decided where we will eat tomorrow.

São Tomé and Príncipe - Dining at a simple local restaurant in Santo Antonio