São Tomé and Príncipe > To Rolas Island

Breakfast is ready in the restaurant: an extensive buffet featuring, for the first time on this trip, real wholemeal bread. It tastes wonderful with a slice of cheese. After breakfast, we prepare for a boat trip to Rolas Island. This small, car-free island lies just a few kilometres south of São Tomé and is situated directly on the Equator. We divide ourselves between two boats, and everyone is given a life jacket. Curiously, there are no life jackets for the crew, even though we are probably better equipped to save ourselves if we were to end up in the water. In less than ten minutes, we arrive at the island. Although there was once a concrete pier, it is no longer usable, so we step ashore directly onto the beach. Around 175 people live on the island, most of whom make their living from fishing. They head out to sea at sunset and continue fishing until about nine o'clock in the evening. A local guide takes us on a tour of the island. She shows us a former resort that has remained closed since the COVID-19 pandemic. The property is still surrounded by fences to prevent anything from being stolen. Perhaps its owners are still hoping to find a buyer. Leaving the village behind, we walk into the tropical forest.

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Coconut husks are scattered everywhere. Harvested coconuts are stripped of their hard outer shells immediately, leaving large piles of husks throughout the forest. We climb to one of the island's highest points, where we cross the Equator. Here stands a monument featuring a mosaic of the world map. It marks what is claimed to be the intersection of the Equator and the Prime Meridian. My phone, however, indicates that the actual intersection lies about 500 kilometres farther west in the Atlantic Ocean. Even so, this is the closest point of land to that location. We take a group photo at the Equator monument before continuing our walk around the island. Crossing to the opposite side, we reach a rocky shoreline where waves crash against the volcanic rocks. A narrow opening in the rocks creates a spectacular natural blowhole. With every incoming wave, a plume of seawater shoots high into the air like a geyser. Standing close to it is great fun, although the spray quickly leaves us completely soaked.

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We continue our walk along the west coast, where rugged volcanic rocks alternate with small sandy beaches. The surf is strong everywhere. Along the way, our guide's flip-flops break. She simply takes them off, throws them behind a tree, and continues the hike barefoot through the forest without the slightest concern. The walk ends at Praia Café after covering about five kilometres. A table has already been laid on the beach for lunch. I order a cola while platters of vegetables, fish, squid, chicken, and rice are brought to the table. Although not everything is piping hot, the meal is delicious. After lunch, the group splits up. Several fellow travellers decide to return to the resort on the opposite shore, but I choose to stay a little longer. Since we travelled over in two boats, there is plenty of room for part of the group to return while the rest remain behind. I go for a swim in the sea at Praia Café, taking care because the heavy surf creates a strong undertow.

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Within just a few metres, the water becomes too deep to stand, so I do not venture very far from the shore. Afterwards, I relax on the beach while the warm air dries me off. It is rather cloudy today; with bright sunshine, the water would undoubtedly have been an even more brilliant shade of blue. Around 3:00 p.m., we also head back to the harbour. Before leaving, we stop at a small beach bar for a drink, which is also a nice way to support the local community. Then I put my life jacket back on and sail back to Porto Alegre. In the evening, a small group of us has dinner with a local family in the village, another opportunity to support the community. On their rooftop terrace, a meal of fish, squid, and vegetables is waiting for us. It is an excellent dinner. By around 9:00 p.m., I am back at my bungalow. Although the Dutch national football team's match starts at 11:00 p.m., I decide not to stay up for it. I am already in bed long before kick-off.