Travelogue Travel around Namibia - Botswana

22 july - 5 aug 2006 (15 days)


Namibia > Climbing the Sossusvlei

Dag 13 - Thursday, August 3, 2006

We are woken up at a quarter past five. Shortly after, at a quarter to six, we are standing in front of the entrance to Sossusvlei National Park. We are going to see the exceptionally high red sand dunes at sunrise.

Namibia - The sand dune in Sossusvlei National Park

It’s actually strange that we are only allowed in at a quarter to six. The dunes are still about 50 kilometers away, and between 6:15 and 6:30 the first rays of the sun will appear. Ideally, the gate should open earlier. It took a while for everyone to get ready this morning, so we end up at the back of the long line of cars waiting to enter the park. Light is already appearing on the horizon, giving a beautiful orange glow from the sun. Once in the park, a caravan of cars speeds through. The maximum speed of 60 kilometers per hour is far exceeded. We are even overtaken by the Djoser truck while already driving at 120 km/h. By half past six, just before sunrise, we arrive at Dune 45. Dune 45 is the only dune in the park that may be climbed. Several people are already making their way up. Spurred on by Thomas shouting “go-go-go,” we run toward the dune as well. This rush exhausts us after only a few dozen meters. Walking in the sand is very strenuous—each step sinks back into the sand. The cold air and the dust kicked up by previous climbers make it even harder. With the first rays of sun, I slow my pace and take a break halfway. I plan not to take another step upward, but after catching my breath, I slowly continue toward the top.

Namibia - Climbing sand dune 45 in Sossusvlei

After all, you only visit Namibia once (though it doesn’t feel that way since the language on the dune is mostly Dutch). The climb is worth it. From the top, we have a beautiful view of Sossusvlei and the surrounding sand dunes. Back down, breakfast is laid out at half past seven next to the bus. I’ve worked up an appetite, and the coffee warms me up a bit. We continue further into Sossusvlei. At the parking area, we transfer into a 4x4 jeep. Remarkably, twenty people can stand in the back of the jeep. We are guided by a Bushman who has lived in the area for a long time and shares his experiences with the nature and animals. The tour is given in Afrikaans. At first it takes some getting used to, but it quickly becomes understandable. The Bushman explains the formation of Sossusvlei, the developments, how the animals have adapted to the desert, and shows animal tracks. He also shows a spider’s nest more than two meters underground and lures it up with some sand.

Namibia - The last remaining water from the rainfall earlier this year in the Sossusvlei

He even uncovers a lizard hiding under the sand, which would normally go unnoticed. The route ends at a dried-up salt pan. Here stand dead trees that have been dead for over 500 years. Due to the lack of water, they haven’t decayed further. It is a surreal sight. The Bushman concludes the tour with a story that carries a moral: we should always listen to the advice of our parents. By half past twelve, we are back at the bus and drive to the camp. We have lunch and the afternoon free. It’s a good time to pack our luggage for the flight or simply relax. I take a cold shower and we have a beer at the bar. In the evening, we have the last dinner. We thank Cheryl and Thomas and give them a tip for their efforts. We finish the evening at the bar, where it’s warmer, meeting travelers from Djoser and Sawadee tours. It’s funny how everyone thinks their own trip is the best and tries to convince others of that. We stay at the bar until it closes around half past eleven.

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