Monaco > Èze and Monaco

It is quiet at the breakfast buffet. There are only two guests, both of whom seem to be traveling alone. In any case, I do not get the impression that the hotel is busy. There are only two cars in the parking lot, even though there is much more capacity. At a quarter to nine I set off for the station. At the bus stop I buy a bus ticket for two rides from the machine, as the receptionist advised me yesterday. I am not yet sure whether I will take the bus both ways in Èze, but better one ride too many than one too few. I continue walking to Nice-Ville station. Many shops are just opening their doors. At the station I accidentally first walk into the Ibis hotel, which has an almost identical name. At the ticket machine in the station I cannot find my stop, Èze. When I ask someone for assistance, he reacts angrily that the ticket counter is closed. Because I find my question fairly simple, I try again. My French is not very good, but I think I heard something like “go to hell.” A bit further on there is a more helpful staff member. He asks about my entire route for the day and advises me to buy a return ticket to Monaco. In Èze I am allowed to get off in between. Much easier. A little later I board the train toward Èze-sur-Mer.

Monaco - The village of ze lies on top of a rocky outcrop

Several tourists get off at this station. I see some sporty people immediately heading for the hiking trail. The village of Èze lies more than 400 meters higher. When I later ride up by bus via the hairpin bends, I am glad I chose this option. Èze was founded in the seventh century on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, making the walled town easy to defend against intruders. I wander through the narrow streets; none of them run straight. Everywhere, stairways lead up or down. Unfortunately, the church is being restored and is not accessible. In one of the historic buildings there is a small coffee shop. The Venezuelan vendor recommends a cappuccino with Brazilian coffee beans, which he says are fruitier. He tells me I am visiting the village at the best time. In summer there can be as many as 5,000 visitors a day; now it is wonderfully quiet. At the very top of Èze lies the botanical garden. I buy a ticket for the Jardin Exotique d’Èze and walk among the unusual plants and cacti. What I am really here for is the magnificent view.

Monaco - A beautiful view over the Mediterranean Sea

From the ruins of the fort I look out toward Nice and Monaco—an impressive sight. I decide not to take the bus back, but to walk down via the Frédéric Nietzsche Path. The path is named after the famous German philosopher Nietzsche, who regularly climbed the steep and rocky trail in the late 19th century. At the start of the path there is a warning that proper footwear should be worn, and for good reason. The trail runs over rocks and worn stone steps. At a leisurely pace I make my way down. Along the way I pass people hiking uphill, and with some of them I wonder what they have gotten themselves into. I am satisfied with my choice to take the bus up in the morning and walk back down now. I certainly did not do it for speed. When I arrive in Èze-sur-Mer, bus 83 is just pulling in with passengers from Èze village. I continue by train to Monaco. It is just past midday when I arrive in this small mountain state. Monaco was founded in 1297 on a rocky outcrop by the Grimaldi dynasty. The princely palace still stands on the rock. Later, Monaco expanded with Monte Carlo and Fontvieille. The country is not even three by one kilometers in size.

Monaco - The Princely Palace of Monaco

Because it is built against steep mountains, navigation can sometimes be tricky. Roads that appear to connect on the map may run above or below each other, or turn out to be tunnels. To be safe, I follow a description of a walking tour through Monaco. I frequently use stairs or escalators to get higher up. How extraordinary it is to walk around this city—wealth and luxury are everywhere. I follow the route toward Monaco-Ville. At a restaurant on Place d’Armes I order lunch and have a Monte Carlo beer with it. Afterwards I continue on to the palace. Unfortunately, the palace cannot be visited in winter. The view from the Monaco Rock is magnificent, both toward Fontvieille and over the harbor. I recognize several locations from the Formula 1 circuit. Via the narrow streets of the old town I reach the Chapelle de la Miséricorde, a beautiful Baroque church. The Cathedral of Monaco is also impressive, although it was built relatively more recently. Through the Jardins Saint-Martin park I reach the harbor, where large luxury yachts are moored. There is also a Christmas market. Before I am allowed to enter the market, I am searched. I order a glass of mulled wine and enjoy Monaco. It is busy at the Christmas market. On the site of Monaco’s swimming pool there is now an ice rink, and a long line of people is waiting for their turn to skate.

Monaco - The most famous and slowest corner of all Formula 1 circuits

Right next to the harbor stands the Église Sainte-Dévote. The church appears closed from the outside until suddenly someone comes out. The 11th-century Catholic chapel is dedicated to Saint Devota, the patron saint of Monaco. I notice that I am starting to get tired. I have taken quite a lot of steps today, and it feels as if they all went either up or down. Finally, I visit the Monte Carlo district, the wealthiest part of Monaco. On the road to the casino, many expensive cars are stuck in traffic; a Porsche is nothing special here. It even seems as if the drivers are doing it deliberately—seeing and being seen. On the square in front of the casino, which is fully decorated for Christmas, people are photographing the most expensive cars. Behind the casino lies the Fairmont Hairpin, the sharp turn from the Monaco Formula 1 circuit and the slowest corner of all F1 tracks. Here too, expensive cars pass by. It is amusing to see this famous Formula 1 spot in person. Around half past five I am back at Monaco station. It is crowded on the platform, but fortunately a double-decker train arrives. I get off again at Nice-Ville and walk back to my hotel. Along the way I buy some snacks and drinks at a supermarket for my hotel room. I ate well this afternoon and do not feel like going out to eat again. It was a beautiful and demanding day.

Monaco - Expensive cars driving past the casino in Monaco