France > City walk through old Nice

At half past seven in the morning I step onto the platform at Sassenheim Station. I am going to Nice for a weekend and from there I will make a trip to the mini-state of Monaco. On the platform I strike up a conversation with two travelers who are heading to Paris. The conversation soon turns to the Paris Roller, the weekly skating tour through Paris. It turns out we have both taken part in it. We exchange a few experiences. Because I am traveling with hand luggage only, I do not have to check in at Schiphol Airport. I go straight to security, where it is relatively busy. Signs indicate a waiting time of about 15–20 minutes. I have plenty of time; my flight does not leave for another hour and a half. I wait at the gate until it is time to board. Since my last flight with KLM Air France, I have been a Flying Blue Silver member. I am allowed extra carry-on baggage and can board in zone three. Nice also seems to be a business destination, because many people are already boarding in zones 1 and 2, which makes the “Silver” benefit rather modest. The flight is fully booked, and the staff have to puzzle over the large pieces of hand luggage. Exactly on schedule, we take off for France. The flight goes smoothly, and along the way I am served a sandwich and something to drink. Upon arrival in Nice, I do not have to wait for my luggage and walk straight outside. I follow the signs to the tram, but the tramway is cordoned off with tape. The terminal doors behind me are also closed off with red-and-white tape. What could be going on? I see a bus with “Terminal 1” written on it. When I get on, it is not clear whether I am supposed to take this bus instead of the tram into the city, so I get off again. Just as a police officer at the barriers indicates that this is indeed the case, the bus drives away. Together with a few other travelers, I decide to walk the one and a half kilometers. At Terminal 1, the tram to the city is indeed running. At the ticket machine I can only choose a return ticket. I am not sure whether I want to return by tram on Sunday, but there is no other option, so I buy a combination ticket. I board the tram and ride five stops. From the Université stop it is only a short walk to my hotel—at least my new hotel. Last week I was informed that my originally booked hotel was undergoing renovations and that I had been rebooked, without consultation, to a sister hotel, which is said to be a bit more luxurious. It is half past twelve when I report to the reception desk.

France - The Promenade des Anglais boulevard in Nice

The room is not yet available, so I leave my luggage and head into the city. I walk toward the old town following a city walk. I pick up the route at the Musée Villa Masséna and follow the directions, walking around the building through the English Garden. On the corner stands the luxury hotel Le Negresco, with expensive cars parked outside. I cross the boulevard and reach the Promenade des Anglais and the beach. The weather is beautiful today; it actually feels a bit too warm to be walking around in a sweater and winter coat. A few brave souls even venture into the sea for a swim. At Albert I Park I leave the boulevard. In the park stands a nostalgic carousel dating from around 1900. Place Masséna is the city’s main square. The beautiful 19th-century square, with its cafés and neoclassical buildings, has an Italian feel to it. This is not surprising, as Nice was part of Italian territories for a long time, including the Kingdom of Sardinia. Only in 1860 did Nice definitively become part of France. At the Christmas market I order a glass of mulled wine. Via the Fontaine du Soleil I reach the Cours Saleya market, where most stalls are just being packed up. What remains are restaurants aimed at tourists. I decide to adjust the route slightly and go first to the Palais Lascaris. I do not know how long the city walk will take and whether the palace will still be open at the end of the afternoon. On the way I pass the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate de Nice. When I enter the cathedral, I am immediately impressed by the overwhelming Baroque interior—how beautiful it is. I have some trouble finding Palais Lascaris in the narrow streets. Located in the heart of Vieux Nice, the palace is a 17th-century Baroque town mansion built by the wealthy Lascaris-Vintimille family and now houses the Musée de Vieux Nice.

France - The Cathedrale SainteReparate de Nice

The elegant staircase, high ceilings, and atmospheric interiors are particularly striking. From the palace I rejoin the original route. Along the coast I enjoy a fine view over Nice’s boulevard. I take the elevator up to the Colline du Château. From the viewpoint I have a beautiful panorama of Nice. From the hill, about three hundred meters high, I can see the route I walked earlier. At a small terrace I order an ice cream and a cola. The sun is already beginning to set, and I immediately notice it becoming cooler. I descend on the other side of the hill toward the harbor, where large luxury yachts are moored—something that will likely be even more extreme tomorrow in Monaco. From the harbor I walk to the MAMAC museum, which is currently under renovation. The museum lies at the edge of the old town. I walk back into the old town through narrow streets. Some streets are busy and full of shops; others are quiet and mainly residential. As it slowly gets dark outside, I order a local beer in a café and watch the people passing by—certainly not all of them are tourists. When I continue walking, it is already dark, giving the city a different atmosphere. The illuminated shopping streets feel lively, but the backstreets seem less inviting to walk through. On Place Masséna I do not have to worry about that; it is busy there. In Albert I Park the Christmas market is open. Entry is free, but there is a serious security check. The park features various fairground attractions and stalls selling food and drinks. Via the square I reach Rue Masséna, a street full of restaurants. In one of them I order lasagna and a glass of wine. Afterwards I walk on to my hotel. At the reception I check in; the room is now available. The receptionist gives me some tips for my route to Èze and Monaco the next day and advises me to buy a bus ticket in Nice in advance for the bus to Èze.

France - The Fontaine du Soleil beautifully illuminated in the evening