Malaysia > The Sarawak Museum in Kuching

Everyone is ready at the pier for the boat trip back to the mainland. It turns out, however, that the boats are not there yet. The rough waves on the South China Sea are slowing them down, so they can’t travel as fast.

Malaysia - Small boats take us from Bako National Park back to the mainland

I wait. The wind blows from the northeast, pushing the water strongly toward the coast. Over three-quarters of an hour later, the four boats appear. I get into the fourth and final boat—an open vessel less than ten meters long. A little worried about the high waves, I put on my life jacket. I’ve also packed all my belongings in plastic. A somewhat futile effort, because if anything were to happen, the waves would carry me toward the rocks. Seeing the force with which the waves crash against the rocks, I wouldn’t want to be caught in between. The helmsman accelerates and heads out to sea. The boat rides the waves. I quickly see that the helmsman is experienced with these waters. When a high wave rises behind me, he gives just enough throttle to ride ahead of it—a sort of boarding with a boat. I estimate the wave is about two and a half to three meters high. I don’t even want to think about what would happen if such a wave hit the boat—everything would be drenched.

Malaysia - The impressive state mosque of Kuching the largest mosque in the city

Once safely in the calmer waters near the river mouth, the helmsman tells me he has over thirty years of experience on this stretch of sea. A relief. When the boat docks, my bus is already waiting. In about an hour, I’m back in Kuching. At the hotel, I get the same room as earlier this week. It feels a little like coming home. I have lunch along Kuching’s waterfront. Through the bustling streets of Chinatown, I reach the large City Mosque. The guard kindly explains that, although I may look around the mosque, I cannot enter as a non-Muslim. He also advises me to visit the garden behind the mosque and points out the Sikh temple across the street. At the Sikh temple, I see a sign indicating that shoes must be removed and heads covered. Since I don’t see anyone at the entrance who could advise me whether a visit is appropriate, I decide not to enter the temple. I continue on to the Sarawak Museum. The museum presents the history of the colonial period in Sarawak province. It was founded by Charles Brooke at the end of the 19th century. I am especially interested in the history of the Iban tribes, which I will visit in a few days. Inside the museum, a longhouse dwelling has been recreated. Human skulls of former headhunters hang from the ceiling. These “trophies” were once used to demonstrate manhood.

Malaysia - Fort Margherita in Kuching was built in 1879 by Charles Brooke

In the animal section, various hornbills are displayed. The hornbill is Malaysia’s national bird, with its distinctive curled and colorful bill. Back at the Kuching River, I take a tambang across to the other side. A tambang is a small boat that serves as a water taxi. The boatman charges less than ten euro cents for the crossing. On the north bank of the river lie the kampongs, the residential neighborhoods of the Malays. I follow the signs to Fort Margherita. The narrow path runs alongside a school fence and leads to a parking lot. It doesn’t look like I’m supposed to be there, and light rain starts to fall. I hesitate. A man approaches on a scooter and asks if he can help. It turns out I’m very close to the fort and can visit it. Perfect timing, as the rain suddenly intensifies. Inside, the fort is not very remarkable. The tower is closed. From the low defensive wall, I have a view across the river of Kuching city. Once the rain has stopped, I take a tambang back to Kuching’s center. On the way to the hotel, I look for a supermarket to buy some supplies for tomorrow. Eventually, I ask at a mobile phone shop, and the young man looks at me questioningly. Hesitantly, he asks if I mean the store next door. We both laugh. In the evening, I eat in the Chinese district. Various dishes are served at the table. I am in no hurry, as it’s raining again outside.