Malaysia > Millions of bats in the Mulu Caves

The airport of Miri is located a few kilometers outside the city. The plane to Mulu takes off at half past nine. It is a small propeller plane with space for sixty passengers. The flight to Mulu takes less than half an hour. By land, however, Mulu is hardly accessible

Malaysia - The propeller plane to Mulu

. There is no proper road through the rainforest to reach it. Mulu National Park is famous for its unique cave systems and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List. At the small airport in Mulu, I am picked up by a resort staff member. He drives me in a very old Toyota minibus. Six people can ride per trip, so he must make three trips. I am amazed that the bus even runs. Through the holes in the floor, I can see the road. Wooden panels partially cover the sides. The back two benches are practically loose and slide back and forth when the bus accelerates. Finally, the sliding door comes off its rails if it isn’t opened very carefully. But none of this really matters. Mulu has only three kilometers of asphalt, and the bus never drives on any of it. The rooms are simple. There are two beds and a private shower and toilet. Walking outside, I notice the oppressive heat. The thermometer on my backpack shows only 26 degrees Celsius—the lowest temperature of this trip—but it is humid.

Malaysia - You need to watch carefully before grabbing the railing This caterpillar with poisonous hairs uses it as a highway

In the afternoon, I visit the caves of the National Park. The caves are located in Gunung Mulu, which rises 2,376 meters. The limestone caves of Mulu are among the largest and most beautiful in the world. Christopher accompanies me as my guide. I follow him along a wooden walkway—a trail on a wooden platform through the forest. This way, I avoid tree roots and muddy sections. It is a three-kilometer walk to the caves. Along the way, Christopher tells me about the insects, shrubs, and trees. He warns me to be careful when holding the handrail, as many caterpillars are on it. Their tiny hairs have barbs that can cause irritation and itching. Soon I see several creatures on the railing, each more beautiful than the last. When I reach the caves, I first enter the Long Cave—a cave system full of stalagmites and stalactites. Then I continue to Deer Cave, one of the largest caves in Mulu.

Malaysia - The tourists at the bottom left show how large Deer Cave is The caves are among the longest in the world

Deer Cave is also home to three million bats. As I enter, I can already smell the acidic scent of bat guano. An ammonia-like odor hits me. I make sure not to touch anything in the cave. The span of the cave is overwhelming. I estimate its height at more than one hundred meters and its width at several hundred meters. Water falls from the ceiling, beautifully illuminated by the incoming light. It is said that St. Paul’s Cathedral in London could easily be rebuilt inside this cave. The bats hang in clusters from the ceiling, still calm. As dusk approaches, they fly out in search of food. To watch this spectacle, I sit outside the cave on some benches. When it is dark enough, I see the first groups of bats emerging from the cave opening. Thousands of black dots swirl through the air like a garland. Gradually, it gets darker. Walking back to the headquarters at the park entrance, it is completely dark. The walkway is lit by lamps, allowing me to walk at a brisk pace—a refreshing change. In the evening, I eat in the canteen with rice, fish, chicken, and fries. Fellow travelers have decorated the table with brought streamers, tablecloths, and candles, creating a cozy Christmas Eve atmosphere.