Malaysia > Swimming near the Clearwater Cave

“Merry Christmas!” A strange thought, celebrating Christmas in the tropics. I take a boat to visit two other caves. At the restaurant, I step into a small boat. The boat, essentially an oversized canoe, has room for seven people in a row. The boat glides over the water against the current. At a Penan tribal village, the boat docks. I visit the village, where the locals also sell souvenirs. It is clear that this village relies on the daily visits of tourists. When I get back in the boat, the next group is already arriving.

Malaysia - By boat to Clearwater Cave

I continue along the Melinau River to the Wind Cave. I sit at the front and it is beautiful to see the towering rainforest giants hanging over the water. At Wind Cave I disembark. A staircase leads me to the entrance of the cave. Through a narrow passage I reach the King’s Chamber. Upon entering this open space in the cave, it becomes immediately clear why it is called the Wind Cave. A sultry wind blows through the narrow opening. The chamber is called the King’s Chamber because of the elegant shapes of the stalagmites, giving the space a palace-like appearance. One stalagmite, with some imagination, resembles a king. A little further along the Melinau River I dock at Clearwater Cave.

Malaysia - The light beautifully streaming into Clearwater Cave

A river flows through this cave, and the clear water exits in front of it. Here there is an opportunity to swim in the clean, but cold, water. To visit Clearwater Cave, I must climb a staircase of 200 steps. Then the route descends into the cave. The river has carved out the cave over time. Clearwater Cave is one of the longest cave systems in the world. You can even reach Wind Cave via the caves, covered but requiring climbing and scrambling—a route of eight kilometers. Once outside the cave, my packed lunch is ready. The slightly soggy meal of rice and chicken in a container doesn’t taste great. I take a few bites to eat something and then go swimming. When I want to jump into the water of Clearwater Cave, I notice that it is really very cold. I wade in carefully. Once in, it is wonderful to swim. I swim toward the small cave opening, where all the river water flows out. It is difficult to swim against the current. On the shore, I let myself dry. Two boats return with fellow travelers. I decide to walk back along the trail with six others—a 3.5-kilometer hike back to headquarters. Along a wooden walkway I follow the river.

Malaysia - A caterpillar feeds on a twig in Mulu National Park Borneo

Sometimes the path literally hangs on the rocks. I hope the platform is sturdy enough. I pass the entrance to Wind Cave. Along the way I see many insects and butterflies. When the trail climbs sharply via steps, I approach Moonmilk Cave. Through a narrow opening, I enter the cave. Using my flashlight, I light the path. It is just wide enough to walk. Occasionally, I have to duck under stalactites. On the rocks, a white substance has formed. Due to the wind in the cave, it grows along the rocks. This is called moonmilk, which gives the cave its name. After several hundred meters, I exit the cave on the other side of the mountain. What a fun experience! I continue along a mostly flat path back to headquarters. After a soda in the bar at the endpoint, I walk the last kilometers along the road back to the lodge. I step into the shower and let the cold water run over me. In the evening it is Christmas dinner. All the purchased bottles of wine are brought to the table. With extra candles, Christmas can’t go wrong.