Japan > The Golden Pavilion

At ten o’clock, I have arranged to meet at the station, where bicycles are available for rent. The bikes are a bit on the small side, but good enough to explore the city. Just to be sure, we ask again: Should we ride on the sidewalk or on the road? Apparently, both are allowed, as long as we don’t obstruct pedestrians on the sidewalk. We ride along the sidewalk to Toji Temple, just behind Kyoto Station. Toji Temple is one of the oldest temples in Kyoto and even boasts the tallest pagoda in Japan at 55 meters. The pagoda is the city’s iconic landmark. Unfortunately, we cannot go inside. The pagoda, which houses Buddhist relics, is only open on special occasions. In the Kondo (Main Hall) and the Kodo (Library), there are beautiful large Buddha statues.

Japan - The pagoda of Toji Temple

Through the temple garden, I return to my bicycle. We ride north to the other side of the city—a fairly long distance. Traffic surprisingly accommodates cyclists well, or perhaps tourists on bikes. Following the main busy roads is easy, but once we venture into the narrow streets, we quickly lose our way. It’s much more enjoyable riding between the old wooden houses, though. Fortunately, everyone manages to find Kinkaku-ji Temple. After asking directions three times, we finally stand in front of the temple. A staff member immediately points out where to park our bikes—just leaving them anywhere is not an option in Japan. Kinkaku-ji, or Rokuon-ji Temple as it is officially called, is especially famous for its Golden Pavilion. Hundreds of other tourists, mainly Japanese, know this too. Today is the first day of the Buddhist Obon Festival. During this three-day festival, ancestors are honored. Officially, it’s not a national holiday, but practically all Japanese take three days off. With a parade of tourists, I enter the temple complex.

Japan - The Kinkakuji temple with the Golden Pavilion

The Golden Pavilion stands across the pond. It dates from the late 14th century, and its golden roof reflects in the gently rippling water—a beautiful sight. Perhaps even more entertaining is watching everyone twist and turn to get the perfect photo with the temple. Most visitors overlook the other gardens, ponds, and temples—and so do I. It’s very warm, so I go looking for something to drink. Vending machines are everywhere—handy for using up my coins. Since visiting the two temples has taken quite a bit of time, we decide to skip the famous gardens of Ryoan-ji. We ride back toward the city center, cutting diagonally through the streets. At every small intersection, we alternate turning left and right, which brings us exactly to Nishiki Market. It’s a covered street filled with food stalls. We try various treats. I try a skewer with a small octopus stuffed with a quail egg—it’s delicious. Just outside the market street, there’s a tiny sushi restaurant, no larger than two by three meters. The man prepares sushi for us while his wife serves green tea. The tuna and mackerel taste wonderful. In the evening, we all meet again. It’s Milko and Saskia’s last night in Japan. At a typical Japanese restaurant, we order several dishes. After coffee at Starbucks, we truly say our goodbyes. It’s a strange feeling after fifteen weeks together.