Japan > The temples of Tokyo

At nine o’clock, we set out for the Tsukiji fish market. The market is within walking distance of the Ginza district and our hotel. On the way, we stop for coffee and a sandwich. At the market, we see the now-familiar Japanese men. Numerous attendants direct us where we can and cannot walk, holding us back whenever a fish cart comes by.

Japan - The fresh fish is ready for sale

It all seems a bit over the top. At the fish market itself, freshly caught fish is processed and sold. The fish is delivered early in the morning. Most of it has already been processed by the time we arrive. In the stalls, the vendors are busy cleaning. We are a bit too late for the full spectacle. Around the streets near the fish market, this matters less. Here, fish is sold in various forms, along with other products. I see fruits being dipped in liquid nitrogen in what look like layered egg pastries. It seems that almost anything is for sale here. On the edge of the district stands the Buddhist Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple. When I enter, I am handed a memorial card. Like the temple we visited yesterday, it is simply decorated. Many people sit on the chairs inside the temple; I even see some men sleeping. A priest is praying with a few worshippers.

Japan - Girls posing in Japanese kimonos

In one corner is a counter where you can ‘purchase’ a service. We take the metro to the northern side of Tokyo, getting off at Ueno Park. Many Japanese come here to relax. The paths are busy. The zoo is also located within this park. We visit the Kiyomizu and Benten temples. Around the latter, everyone is using their phones. Curious, I ask why, and it turns out this is a special Pokémon location—a popular phone app for the past few weeks. We’ve missed this craze. It’s bizarre to see how engaged everyone is with it. A little further is the Gojo Shrine in a cave. The cave is accessed via a series of red torii (wooden gates). We manage to find the temple, but the cave itself appears closed. Outside the cave stand Inari fox statues, draped with red cloths.

Japan - Everything screams for attention in the shopping streets

We leave the park and have a beer at its edge. Today is warm again, with some light clouds. Rain is forecast for the night, which may bring some relief. We seek some cooling by the Sumida River, where the Senso-ji Temple is also located. The approach from the Kaminarimon Gate to the temple is lined on both sides with numerous stalls. The guidebook describes them as traditional Japanese goods, but I mostly see souvenirs. Among the tourists, there are girls dressed in traditional kimonos, unintentionally becoming attractions themselves. They are taking photos, and ask if they can take one with me. They explain they went out with friends and wore their kimonos especially for this occasion. The Senso-ji Temple itself is busy as well, so busy that it almost has an amusement-park-like atmosphere. Everyone crowds around the gilded shrine. Unfortunately, the five-story pagoda next door is under scaffolding. We walk back to the Sumida River and take the Tokyo ferry back to the area near our hotel—a half-hour ride. Tall residential towers line both sides of the river. In the evening, we look for a restaurant near the hotel in the Ginza district. Under the arches of the railway line, there are cozy restaurants and bars. Everywhere is lively and cheerful. In the end, we choose Thai cuisine.