Brunei > The small state of Brunei

Because the ship was delayed when departing from Singapore due to having to return for a medical emergency, we arrive in Brunei a few hours later than planned. Originally, we were supposed to dock at eleven o’clock, but the expected arrival time is now two o’clock. Our Brunei excursion has been adjusted accordingly. We gather at half past two, which means we have the morning free. We get up slowly and go to the breakfast buffet. Afterwards, we walk around the ship and order a drink. Since we had a relatively late breakfast, we skip lunch. Around two o’clock we go to the Grand Bar on deck five, the meeting point for excursions. The ship is docked close to the quay. Because the Brunei authorities require all passports to be checked, they were already collected when boarding on Friday. We wait a short while for this formal procedure to be completed. When the first group is called to the buses, a bottleneck forms on the stairs to the exit. Many of the people waiting are likely independent visitors exploring Brunei. At the port, several buses are ready. We board bus 52, a combined bus with English and German travelers. A Costa staff member is on board to provide the German translation, while we receive information directly from Mawy, our local guide. He explains that Brunei is eight times larger than Singapore, but has only 500,000 residents. The country is ruled by the Sultan. Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah is the 29th Sultan of Brunei. Mawy also gives the Sultan’s full official name — an impressively long list. The Sultan serves as king, prime minister, and all ministers combined, and is among the richest people on earth. Yet Mawy is remarkably positive about him: life in Brunei is good, healthcare is nearly free, and the infrastructure is excellent. The Sultan is 88 years old, and next year will mark his 60th year in power. Our first stop in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, is the Royal Regalia Museum. Everyone must remove their shoes at the entrance. The museum displays Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah’s personal possessions, coronation ornaments, trophies, and other important treasures. The amount of gold used is astonishing. The massive ceremonial throne has been used only twice in recent decades; it will be carried again through the capital when the Sultan celebrates sixty years on the throne next year. Mawy guides us through the museum. It is sometimes hard to follow, as he begins his explanation before the group is fully assembled, but the German translation helps. Visiting the restroom is a bit inconvenient since I have to walk in socks; two pairs of slippers are provided, but with twenty people, there is a wait. Carefully, I enter the restroom in my socks. After the museum, we visit the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, an impressive sight with golden domes and tall minarets. The mosque, built in 1958, sits on an artificial lagoon. Mawy is unsure whether we may enter, as visiting hours for non-Muslims end at two o’clock, but due to the delay, we missed that window. Fortunately, an exception is made for cruise passengers. Women must wear a hooded cape. From the outside, the mosque is magnificent with a gilded dome; inside, it appears rather simple. I had expected more grandeur. We continue the tour to the water, where we are given life jackets and board a boat to Kampong Ayer, the city on stilts. Allegedly, the first Sultan decided in 1363 to build his kingdom here, constructing houses on stilts. Many Bruneians still live this way today. Kampong Ayer is the largest stilt city in the world. As we navigate between houses, we see both new and dilapidated older structures. The city has schools, mosques, and even a police station. We dock at a pier and walk along a wooden walkway to one of the houses, where we are welcomed with tea and local delicacies. A bridge leads us back to the road, where the bus is waiting. It is already getting dark, and the sun is setting on the horizon. It is also past half past six, the usual time for dinner, so we won’t make it tonight. On the way back to the cruise ship, we stop briefly at the Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, the largest mosque in the country with 29 golden domes. In the twilight, the mosque is especially beautiful. From the capital, it is another half hour to the port. Brunei looks very different at night. Upon arrival, it takes a while to disembark as the port authorities only allow one bus to unload at a time. We return to the ship around eight o’clock — much too late for dinner. Instead, we go to the buffet restaurant on deck nine, choose some dishes, and order a glass of wine. There is only a theater show at eleven o’clock tonight, which is quite late. We take our drinks back to our cabin and sit on the balcony, looking out over the harbor of Brunei.