Tibet > Tent camp at five kilometers altitude

Tibet - View of the mountain giants in Qomolangma National Nature Preserve on the way to Everest

Today is Mount Everest day—a literal and figurative highlight of the trip. After breakfast, the luggage is loaded back onto the bus, and we set off. Just outside Shegar, there is a checkpoint where everyone must leave the bus and show their passports in a small building. Shortly afterward, we turn left and enter the National Qomolangma Nature Preserve, also known as Mount Everest Park. Tamdul arranged the tickets for us yesterday in Shegar, so entering the park goes smoothly. As we continue, the road quickly turns to gravel and rocks. This 102-kilometer route will take us to Mount Everest’s base camp, including a significant mountain pass. With an impressive series of switchbacks, we reach 5,100 meters. Unfortunately, it’s cloudy today. We can see other Himalayan giants, but Mount Everest itself is hidden behind a layer of clouds. Occasionally, the clouds part, giving us clear views of the snow-covered peaks. Tamdul points out what he thinks is Mount Everest, but later we discover it’s the wrong mountain. The real Mount Everest eventually reveals itself. Along the way, we have lunch by the roadside, eating instant noodles. After several hours of bouncing along the rough road, we arrive at the monastery near base camp, about three kilometers before the tent camp.

Tibet - Lunch by the roadside with snowcovered peaks in the background

We get out to walk the last stretch while the bus continues to the camp. This gives us time to visit the monastery, the highest in Tibet. We explore the courtyard, but the temple itself is closed. When we ask a monk why, he calls someone with the key, and the door is opened for us. Next, we walk at a leisurely pace to the tent camp, located at 5,028 meters. The altitude is noticeable—not only because the air is thin and oxygen levels are lower, but also because it’s quite chilly with strong winds. The camp resembles a cozy street, with large tents on both sides. Our tent is roughly in the middle, and we are welcomed with a warm stove and hot tea. Some have the energy to walk toward base camp, but I choose to relax and enjoy the view of Mount Everest from the camp. The clouds constantly change, giving the mountain a different appearance every time, prompting us to rush outside repeatedly. A commotion arises when it turns out one of the reserved tents was also rented to a group of Germans. Fortunately, another tent is available across the way, and the situation is resolved. Later, more people enter our tent, so we remain vigilant and quickly stow our luggage. The tent camp’s toilet is a unique experience. Open-air defecation is not allowed—understandably—so a tent has been set up on the hillside. Exposed to the wind, its flaps blow in every direction, making it less than inviting. But when nature calls… Meanwhile, Tamdul has prepared a delicious meal. In the evening, most people retreat to their own tents relatively early. We stay up a little longer chatting. Our drivers sit in a corner, seemingly watching us until they can go to sleep. Once we roll out our sleeping gear, they quietly leave. I choose to sleep on a duvet, as the bench is very hard. The hostess rushes over to show me how to arrange it properly: one half of the duvet goes on the bench, then my sleeping bag on top, followed by the other half of the duvet draped over the bag.

Tibet - The tent where we stayed at 5028 meters at the foot of Mount Everest

Another blanket is spread over the bed, with an extra heavy yak blanket at the foot. I doubt I’ll be cold. After everyone is tucked in—we barely get a “goodnight” kiss—the lights are turned off (by disconnecting the battery), and we go to sleep. Activities around the tents continue for a while. People frequently enter and leave doors wide open, and dishes are washed in the tent next to us using a flashlight. I hardly notice any of it, though; despite the altitude of 5,028 meters, I sleep soundly.