Tibet > The stupa of the Kumbum monastery

A free day in Gyantse. For the more athletic among us, there’s the option to climb to the top of the Poo Shi Ta La mountain. Gyantse lies at 3,900 meters, while the summit reaches 5,050 meters. To reach the top, an early start is essential.

Tibet - The fort in Gyantse overlooking the town

A small group gets up at seven o’clock, planning to begin their hike at 7:30. Unfortunately, the restaurant is still closed for breakfast, and the gate is locked. By rattling the gate, they manage to wake someone, who comes out in her pajamas to unlock it. I’m not a fast climber, and I’ve decided not to attempt the summit. Instead, I’ll spend the day exploring Gyantse and plan to hike up to the monastery halfway up the mountain, located at a “mere” 4,300 meters. That’s about a two-and-a-half-hour climb. When I come downstairs, the restaurant has just opened for breakfast. The waitress rushes around, and meals are served steadily. After breakfast, we walk into Gyantse and head toward the Kumbum Monastery. The streets are quiet, and many shops are closed — perhaps they observe a Sunday rest here. At the Kumbum Monastery, things are also just getting started. It’s just past nine when the ticket window opens for us.

Tibet - Depiction of Green Tara

The temple itself is also just opening, and the monks are lighting hundreds of butter lamps. The Protector Chapel, to the left of the entrance, is especially beautiful. We also visit the temple’s second floor. Next, we continue to the nearby stupa. To take photos, you must pay 10 yuan — otherwise, you must leave your camera behind. I’d rather not do that, so I pay the fee. The stupa has six levels, with seventy-two small chapels spread across them. We walk around a few levels and then climb to the topmost tier, standing just below the large eyes of the stupa. From here, there’s a magnificent view over Gyantse. It’s becoming noticeably busier with tourists — probably day-trippers from Shigatse. We return to the hotel for a light meal. Then, we take a motorbike taxi back to the monastery to begin the hike to the Poo Shi Ta La mountain monastery. Just before the Kumbum Monastery, we turn left into a typical Tibetan street and head into the mountains. Along the way, Tibetans are threshing grain, and after a long, gradual incline, we reach rugged rocks. In a shady gorge, we take a break to eat some fruit. With binoculars, we scan the mountaintop and think we see people moving — likely the first group who started earlier this morning. We continue climbing toward the monastery. The ascent is tougher than expected, especially under the midday sun. But as we round the final bend, we spot the small monastery clinging to the mountainside.

Tibet - We take a scooter through the streets of Gyantse

The dogs have already noticed us and bark loudly as we approach. A monk appears to greet us, motioning for us to enter. Without a word, he unlocks the gate and gestures us inside. He doesn’t speak a word of English, so he guides us around using gestures. We understand that normally eight monks live here. On the second floor, we leave a small donation at an altar. The monk quickly hurries back down when the dogs start barking again — new visitors are arriving. We exit through the gate and follow the same path down, which is much easier this time. Back at the Kumbum Monastery in Gyantse, we take another motorbike taxi to the hotel. Across the street, we have a meal at the Yak Hotel. Meanwhile, the first climbers from the summit begin to return — five out of eight managed to reach the top. In the evening, we dine at the Chinese restaurant across the street. The chef puts on quite a show while cooking, and although the meal is relatively expensive — about eight euros per person — it’s delicious. It’s actually the most expensive dinner we’ve had all trip.